[Vwdiesel] another blown A2 jetta heater fan

[Will Taygan]

Wow, my a2 1991 ecodiesel (w/ a/c)fan speed 1-3 blew yesterday - 4 still
works.  I had it on 1 while it was warming up..  a bad idea to leave a
squeaky fan by itself

If I replace the Blower Motor Resistor/Regulator (part# 191959263) and
drill the hole/grease the fan, will I have replaced the fusible link, or
do I need to buy a whole new fan assembly (part #893820021)?

Resistor:
(http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=biru1y453nrkm4fdsw0of445&partnumber=191959263)
 
Fan:
(http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=biru1y453nrkm4fdsw0of445&partnumber=893820021)

Great info culled from the archives and recent posts (snipped quite a
bit):

** Sandy Cameron Wrote June 8, 2006:
In the resistor pack (found near the blower motor in the outlet duct on
A/C cars, and mounted right on the motor in non-A/C equipped)  there is
a fusible link that protects the motor, wiring, and resistors from any
fault that slows or stops the motor.

Example: sticky bearings that may slow or stop the fan at the lower
torque in slow mode.

The fan stops, the resistors heat up and burn out because of no air flow
over them, perhaps setting fire to the car in the process.

The thermal fuse is heat actuated, not current actuated. It is the small
silvery cylinder located close to the green resistor unit in the
resistor pack. It is only in the circuit for the lower speeds, not max.

It is not considered replaceable, but guess what?? I use a short length
of  wire solder carefully tacked across the thermal, which will melt if
it gets hot enough opening the circuit.

The fan bypasses this device in full on mode, as there is no resistor in
the circuit on high speed. Also, may be a conscious emergency provision
to ensure availability of windshield defrosting in event of fuse
failure. 

Eventually the sticky bearings will prevent operation on high speed too,
resulting in a stinky burned-out motor, a blown fuse, and no further A/C
or heat, and especially, no defrost/demist.

** Sandy Cameron Wrote Dec 29, 2008:
In cars with A/C,  (See non-A/C below) the fan is mounted behind the
glove compartment, which must be removed to get at it. Not a big deal.
It is also necessary to remove the bolt / screw at the end of the dash
close to the right front door post, and pry it toward the rear, in order
to get the fan motor down past the lower edge of the dash. 

I think there are 6 fairly large Philips screws holding the assy in. 

When you get it out, the rear bearing is easy to get at. The fan end is
a little more difficult.

If you can get the fan off the shaft, the front bearing is exposed and
can be lubed. If the fan is rusted on to the shaft, The simplest thng to
do is drill a hole through its hub, close to the , and parallel to the
shaft, and use a lube tube to get lube to the bearing, which is just
below the hub.

** Loren wrote Dec 29, 2008:
... I'd strongly suggest drilling a hole through the hub as the FIRST 
line of attack.