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Re: Electric problem
>I have an 86 Audi Quattro Turbo. The rear lights have generated a fault.
>With the sidelights on, if indicating I get a side light flash also on
>both sides, this is true for indicating left or right. Also with the
>hazards on the side lights dim if turned on.
>The computer tells me `check brakes lights'. I had all the rear light units
>out and they work fine. The fuse holdings look good as do the relay seats.
>Anyone help with tips where next to look???
This has all the symptoms of a common ground problem. It
would seem that the ground from your high wattage filament
is choosing to go through other paths to get to ground,
such as the low wattage filaments spread all around the car.
Ground wires are usually brown in color. look for them, and
check out the holder itself. Those holders have copper strips
all over the plastic that are used somewhat like printed
circuits. One of them could have "opened" or be badly
corroded.
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>There has been discussion of rubber seals on dipsticks (seriously) to
>prevent induction of unmetered air. The dipstick on my 86 5000S appears to
>have none. There is just the steel stick and a red rubber/plastic seal or
>cap. Should there be a separate ring? Are these a dealer stocked item?
>------------------------------------------------------
>Jason Douglas
Jason,
My 86 5kTQ doesn't have any O-rings either. Just the red plastic..
However it seems to work ( the engine anyway ) just fine.
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>I didn't use either tool. My son stood on the brakes while I wielded a 3/4"
>breaker bar (rented ~$6) with a piece of water pipe added for an extension.
>Same thing on tightening other than using a torque wrench. With the brakes
>on it only took a steady pressure and the nut loosened like butter. Heck
>those brakes can hold 250 lbs of torque easily. A mechanic told me he uses a
>large screwdriver or pry bar wedged into the teeth on the flyweel. I worried
>too much about breaking a tooth and my son's labor was cheap (pizza).
>Just make sure you get the right bolts back into the right place when you
>put the sheet metal back on the front. some of those hold the oil pump in
>place. I'm not telling how I know this :)
>Bruce
Thinking about it, the shaft/clutch/transmission/brakes should
be able to hold 250 lb-ft of torque. Thats what an european spec
220 HP engine would put out anyway. Thanks having for the courage
to try it out.
I'm rethinking, but will probably still chicken out. Nick mentioned
breaking a 1/2" Sears ( Craftsman ?) breaker bar. The breaker bar
is a lot easier ( cheaper ) to replace than almost any Audi part
such as clutch parts or transmission parts.
Alan Cordeiro
'86 5KTQ