Re: Door Handles/Batteries

[cordeiro@adi.com (Alan Cordeiro)]

>The first is a broken door handle on my 87 5000TQ. The inside lever finally 
>snapped one cold morning and I've purchased a new one to replace it. After 
>removing the two screws inside the weather strip to the rear of the door I 
>thought the handle would just slide forward and out (like the handle on my 80 
>Scirocco). This appears not to be the case and there seems to be something 
>attached to the rear of the handle keeping it from slipping out of the mounting 
>hole in the door. What am I missing here?

>The second is the ongoing saga with the battery. I've replaced it (most times 
>under warranty) 6 times in the last two years. Its the 72 mo Autobahn brand 
>sold by the dealer. I've had the car checked over at each replacement for an 
>unusual draw but none can be found. Each time its been replaced the problem has 
>been a bad cell. This  has been frustrating and its always a crap shoot as to 
>whether the car will start after being left at the airport for a week. Any 
>potential solutions or is this "par for the course" for Audi?

>Jeff Gerhart

Jeff,

Its been a while ( year plus ) and my memory fades fast, but I tkink the 
last screw can be seen if you take off the stainless steel strip on the
front of the handle. It sort of clicks in the rear part, a screwdriver
will work to pop it off. 

The battery problems seem to be getting as popular as hydraulic
problems. Carl deSouza put one on the net late December. Not having
any real answers, I can only start sharing thoughts.

1. The alternator should charge 14.2 volts for best performance.
However Audi allows 12.8 to 14.x ( 14.5?) as the allowable range.
My sample of one says 13.8 or so, way too low. I boost charge my
battery every month or so in warm weather, perhaps every two weeks
in cold weather. ( the charger only adds 1 amp or so overnight ).

2. You keep getting bad cells. Cells go bad if you leave them flat
for too long, or continuous overcharging ( heating -> buckling ->
internal shorts ). In cold climates a discharged battery can get
ruined if the temperature drops much below freezing, since the
acid ( low frezing point ) turns into distilled water ( 32 F 
freezing ). and you can guess what that does to the inside of the 
cells ( porous spongy lead plates, ice expands ..).
Which one is yours ?

3. You may have an intermitant short ( something that was not
present when your tests were run ). Check trunk/hood light, Stereo
power amp in trunk, The power antenna for the radio, the vacuum
pump that runs the central locking system ( though that would
probably have burnt out by now ), air blowers and the hot water 
circulating pump that cools the turbo after you shut off, just
to name a few things.

4. Change your alternator. It could be intermittantly giving a very
high charging voltage due to a corroded connection  ( poor contact
where the regulator touches the positive terminal internal to the 
alternator ). Else it could be inermittantly low.

5. Change your battery brand. Get a Delco or Diehard International.


If you have the extra money and you have ~100k on the alternator, 
do that one first, you will need it one of these days anyhow.
Make sure yor get at least 13.8 volts when charging, 14.0
would be preferable, but I'm not sure how to tell you how
to "get" one.

Alan