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OW-D Suspender Questions
Awright, you gurus of Audidom. I've been a patient and receptive observer of
this list and enjoyed it all and now it's time to make a request that only
such esteemed intelligensia as you may be able to help with.
I have a 1987 4000CSQ, 115k miles. A few months back I slammed into a
chuckhole and broke both right side wheels. Some time back, I'd upgraded
from the stock 195/60-14 to 205/50-15, and the smaller sidewalls transmit
more shock to the wheels, making them more susceptible to this, but let it be
known that this was one Father of a chuckhole. Measurements the next day
revealed it to be 28" long and 18" deep. Upon replacement of the wheels (the
tires miraculously survived), I noted horrid tendencies for the car to pull
away from center, and the tendency of a right or left pull dependended upon
whether one was accelerating or braking. An hour under the car at a
suspension shop revealed that the anti-sway bar link bushing at the lower
control arm was torn to bits, as was the rear bushing at the control-arm to
subframe mounting point. If one grabs the right front wheel and applies
rotational torque, one can rock the wheel fore and aft by about 1 1/2 inches.
There is visible motion also at the other control-arm to subframe bushing, as
well as at the subframe-to-main frame bushing on that side. So I think I
need four bushings, minimally.
So here's the question:
At 115k miles, is it wise to do bushings on one side only, or should I
replace the equivalent bushings on the other side? And, I would appreciate
some increased firmness and stability in handling, so are there
recommendations for firmer (non-stock) bushings?
Further, the springs and shocks are original and the passenger side is riding
about a half inch lower than the driver's side. I'd like to replace these
items with ones that will enhance within-the-envelope road feel and
tightness. I don't run rallies or races of any sort, but love the feel of a
tightly controlled suspension. I've seen postings on Boges by a few,
wondering how much difference is there between turbo and pro, and whether
anyone's had experience with Tociko (sp?), Koni or KYB in this application
and what the results were. European Car magazine not long ago had an article
detailing the replacement of the original parts with Boges and springs by H &
N. The springs were essentially the German spec variable rate units, and
they lowered ride height by an inch. I worry a bit about that, with my
current spongy pseudo-Buick setup, I get some wheel rubbing from the larger
tires, although the European Car project did involve the same tire size I'm
using. Any thoughts, guys?
Dave
Denveroo@aol.com
1987 4000CSQ @ 115,000
1981 RX-7 @ 160,000 and no compression and no junkyards will take it.