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Re: Having a ball with a joint....
My appologies. I was thinking the car in question was a Coupe GT - a 4k
derrivative and a very close relative of my Quantum. Obviously (as
STEADIRIC has pointed out to me) the 5k is an entirely different animal.
The a-arm drop does help on the Quantums if anyone's interested.
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Jeremy R. King Auburn University, Alabama, USA
/////////// '86 VW Quantum GL5 \\\\\\\\\\\\
Rear Dynomax Glasspak, Hollow cat, Drilled Airbox
Sach's / KYB struts, Round 55W Driving Lights
\\\\\\\\\\\ Still Slower'n Christmas ////////////
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On Sat, 22 Jun 1996 PDQSHIP@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 96-06-21 16:39:59 EDT, you write:
>
> << Yo, Scott. What the heck Audi have you been working on?!! I've taken a
> friggin crow bar (is that right? I've never had to spell that before) to
> that split and no voila. Had a crow bar on the split with a jack under
> the brake caliper mount and a five foot cheater trying to pry. Nothing
> but frustration. I'm not saying you're wrong, just lucky. Taking the
> a-arms off the subframe is the only thing that has ever worked for me out
> of the 10 or 15 times I've taken these things apart. Consider yourself
> smiled upon (or is it that I'm frowned upon?).
> >>
> 5kt/q Jeremy, please read on....
> The primitive pete procedure is as follows (and forbottin by the boys at
> Bentley says mr spiers, tho scott notes that Mr. B prolly figgrd the last
> mechanic used a torque wrench not an air hammer on that retaining bolt):
>
> Get your disposable screwdriver, not Todd's snap-on
> lightly tap into split in hub
> depending on blade, either pry (don't need much, like 1/16") or tap to split
> Take 5 foot bar (referenced in Bentley no less, doubt there is an audi tool)
> I use audi tool 02X04 six feet long
> Pry down (as in stand on) bar and it will come out
> NOTE Mike: that 10.9 bolt uses a nylon ringed locking nut
>
> I assure you Jeremy, given the number of cars and number of times I've done
> this procedure, it ain't luck.... And if you look at the procedure in Mr.
> Bentley, there is NO reference to the pull of the control arm first.
> Thinking on this further, there is no a-arm on an 87 5ktq, so to do your
> recommended method would require: removing sway bar, brake caliper, abs
> sensor, tie rod end and driveshaft to give enough room to pull the CONTOL-arm
> out of the subframe.... Hmmmmm, hardly smiling after that.......
>
> Scott
>