Oil Pannage

["Al Powell" <APOWELL@agcom.tamu.edu>]

"MRGATE::\"AM::fmartin\""@oa.ithaca.edu quoth.... [snip]

> 2) If there is a danger of leaving a big piece, like a nut, in the pan, the 
> only other option that comes to mind is to find a mechanic that will/can braze 
> the plug to the pan so that the entire affair is permanantly sealed, then cut 
> a new hole to drain oil out of the pan. This new hole can be plugged with one 
> of several fixit pieces (metal self-threading or rubber plugs) available at 
> auto parts stores.

Having just pulled the oil pan on an 85 Chevy 305 V-8 last week,
I sent a separate reply to Dorab, but I LIKE this option!  Just braze 
the d**n thing shut/leakproof, drill a new hole, tap it, and 
flush thru the engine - then install one of the units which allows 
you to drain by twisting a lever.  BUT - I think one would have to 
use hi-temp silicone to seal around the plug, as the metal in the pan 
is not all that thick.  Remember, though, that there is NO pressure 
inside.  All you're sealing is oil against gravity.

FWIW, based on my observations, it would hurt NOTHING to have a large 
nut sitting in the bottom of the Chevy small block V-8 oil pan,  It 
couldn't block the oil pump pickup, and it's at least 6" away from 
the crank.  There's also a windage tray which runs between the crank 
and the oil sump....I don't think there's any real chance that a 
large nut would get up into the crank, as long as you were SURE it 
was at the bottom of the pan....

ALSO - you have to MISS the oil pickup when drilling the new hole!  I 
think I would drill right in the front and center of the lowest part of the 
pan.  Based on my observations of the placement of the oil pump 
pickup in the small block Chevy (and this was very recent) that 
should clear everything!
 
> In both cases, you may end up with metal shavings inside the pan. You'd need 
> to wipe them out as best as you can (say, a bent wire coathanger with a bit of 
> rag secure at the end), and try to flush the rest out with a brief 
> run-and-dump oil change.

I'd flush with the thinnest oil I could find - leaving the drain hole 
open - and heat it up first so it would run thru faster than when cold.

While you're at it, you could epoxy a powerful magnet (like the one 
Mitch Loesher mentioned recently) to the SIDE of the pan (not the 
bottom - that's where the oil pump picks up.  That would hold any 
particles remaining in suspension.
 
> Both scenarios involve some crappy work, but seems much less so (and $) than 
> an entirely new pan.

Agreed.  Capitol thoughts, Mr. Frank!!


Al Powell                           Voice:  409/845-2807
107 Reed McDonald Bldg.             Fax:    409/862-1202
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