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Re: Seizures



Bruce wrote:

>I agree with Scott.  The majority of torque specifications are "dry torque"
>values, (mating surfaces clean and dry).  If the specification requires a
>lubricant they should be specified in the torque tables for that particular
>fastner.  By adding a lubricant (anti-sieze is one) you essentially reduce
>the friction of the mating parts and cause the fastener to "stretch" a bit
>more before desired torque is reached.  This extra stretch equates to undo
>stress and eventually fatigue of the fastener, especially when cyclic heat is
>involved.  In other words you will end up over-torqueing the fastener.  While
>most fasteners have a large of forgiveness factor, others are torque
>critical!!!  Aluminum is one of the less forgiving...

OK Scott and Bruce, ya caught me:-\

	I lied; I didn't use a torque wrench, but an educated(?) hand instead.
I've been changin' plugs in alloy heads since I was 16('63 Buick Skylark conv.,
'55 MkVII Jaguar Saloon, '65 E-type, '77 BMW R100RS twin-plug) I've yet to hurt
one...yet:-( And I always recheck the plugs about 2-3 days after I've installed
them. But I use "never-seize" for two reasons: I believe the potential for
damage exists in removing the plug, not installing it. Over the years MY
observations have  been that the dissimilar metals and their different values of
expansion and contraction tend to pull things tighter over time and the crud
that builds up on the threads often requires more torque to remove the plug than
was used to install it. I also believe that the zinc and/or copper used in
these products enhances the electrical path from the plug to the head. Maybe
not much, but it has to be better than the crud that builds up 'round these
things. I admit that this practice could be all wrong, but I haven't been
bitten by it in the last 32 years(knock on wood). I left out a few other
motorcycles, but you get my drift. In fact, the machinist who did the twin-plug
heads on the Beemer for me gave me a small tube of "Never-seize" to put under
the seat on the bike and told me to make sure I always used it...go figure.

	So, I'm not arguing with ya, just saying this has worked for me and I'm
sure your way works for you. Where I wish someone had used an anti-sieze
product was on the spring perch in the top of my wastegate. That was a bear to
get apart to install the "Charlie spring" shim; it felt for sure like it was
stripin'; some thread material was lost, but not much. After a good cleaning it
torqued down nicely. Nope, no torque wrench...just that ol' "educated" hand
again:-)

						Happy motoring,
							
								Shef

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