Re: Lub Bolts - A better Anti Seize

[PDQSHIP@aol.com]

In a message dated 96-10-03 19:13:52 EDT, you write:

<< >But it may explain why a bolt torqued to 80 lbs/ft may require 100 to
break 
 >free.  (No more than that, I'd say...)
 
 Yep, a typical momentum hysterisis.
 
 >In an effort to reduce this, I have started using Anti-sieze on my 
 >lug bolts.  It seems to work very well in preventing them from 
 >locking into the rotors.  I recommend this practice to others; it 
 >makes changing wheels a much more pleasant experience, as long as you 
 >don't accidentally smear it on your clean clothes.  It doesn't take 
 >much, and only needs to be renewed once every two or three times you 
 >remove the bolts.
 
 Absolutely. I have forgotten about seazed bolts ever since started doing 
 this.
  >>
.....  For about 10 dollars + 10 min you can do a better and correct job, buy
a wire brush for your electric drill, use it on the threads of the bolts to
get the crud off.....   Go to a gun store and buy a barrel cleaning brush and
put this on the electric drill and do the bolt holes in the hub.....  DRY
torque to spec (a torque spec, by definition, is a dry CLEAN thread, unless
otherwise noted) and forget the A.S. on the wheel bolts, bottom line, the
procedure and the A.S. cure are and can be just dead wrong....  Same
procedure for the brake carriers too.......  Think about the A.S. argument,
you aren't solving the problem, just creating a new one....

NJTH
Scott