old audi with some problems...

[robertwil@dido.iaf.nl (Robert Willemsen)]

Hi all audi-owners!

First of all: best wishes for 1997!!

I'm a new subscriber to the quattro list, and an owner of a mai-1982 Audi 100
GL (5 Cyl. 136 PS. 2.2 litre): it's the old box-design model predecessing the
Audi 5000S as sold in the US/the wind-funnel shaped Audi 100 sold in Europe
after september 1982...
I hope some of you have experiences with this type of car....

Now to the problems:

1.)
Is it feasible to change the clutch friction plate and other clutch parts by
removing the entire engine out of the car??
>From some manuals I got the impression this should be possible..
I know, the normal way is jacking up the car very high (in a professional
garage :-( which I don't have), and after disconnecting the exhaust-system and
disconnecting the drive axles, and unbolting the housing of the clutch from the
gearbox, this piece can be lowered and the clutch elements are accessible for
cure...
As I'm not able to jack Audi so high I can do this beneath him, I would better
try it the other way: disconnecting the engine and lifting it out of the engine
bay...
Has anyone any experiences on this theme which he/she is willing to share with
me???

2.)
Under the bonnet you can find, on the right side in a left-steering car, and
covered by a plastic shield, the battery, standing in the 'Wasserkasten' =
wather bay (?)..
In my car the panel in this area has corroded away in such a way a hole has
appeared (after some removing loose rust-parts), where the whole battery can be
passed through :-((( then landing behind the glove-box.
It's just sitting on his seat which isn't undermined yet, but water is leaking
in..
On the move wind is blowing in too...
Is it possible to repair this defect in the own garage..? Prefab panel isn't
available for this problem, so I had to shape a piece of sheet metal in the
appropriate form and than weld it in (or pop-rivet or solder..)
(this because welding isn't permitted 'as is' because of the electronic
ignition system (the Audi-dealer has a special diode-connector to prevent
damage... I think I had to remove the ignition system before as I haven't that
tool...).

3.)
In tool-shops low-end MIG-MAG weldinggear is offered (mostly suited for 0,6-0.8
mm. panel thickness). Does anyone have welding experience with that sort of
electric 'gas-shielded' welding and have an advice for buying such tools??
(I know: the more costly machines are professional ones (about hfl 1800,- is
about $us 1000.-), but cost happens to be a factor ;-(

I hope anybody wants to say anything about this...

Thanks a lot for doing so...
See you!

Robert
(Netherlands)
robertwil@dido.iaf.nl

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