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resent: clutching the old Audi again..
Hi Scott,
I got your extensive answer on my question on changing clutch components on a
Mai-1982 Audi 100 (FrontWD) 2.2 lit. 100 kW 5 cyl....
Thanks a lot for your instructions!..
>@Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 02:18:38 -0500
>From: QSHIPQ@aol.com
>@Message-Id: <970105021837_439438053@emout20.mail.aol.com>
>@To: e6941tb@gnn.com, robertwil@dido.iaf.nl
>@Cc: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: Clutch jobs - I5 transes
>.... Done more of these on the floor than my aging back cares to admit,
>and I have 3 more waiting for me... Yes, the fwd can be dropped with the
>motor, but not necessary, in fact, hardly necessary, you are adding all
>sorts of time to a pretty straight forward job.... I had posted the
>procedure a while back, just looked thru my volumes here in pc land, can't
>find, but bet it's in the archives.... Highlites:
>* no don't drop the motor, that adds at least another day to the
>procedure,
>no vital fluid drain the proper way
>* make sure you put a crossbrace on the front motor mount, otherwise the
>motor will rock forward on the side mounts, and the trans will never go
>back in
The engine is turning down on the front when the weight of the gearbox is no
longer on the rear end??
My handbook indicates a bar with a tensioner resting on the mud-guards and
pulling the block high (a bit.. :-))
>* The wheels and driveshafts can be left on the car, just disconnect them
>at the trans
>* Remove subframe assbly, can be removed and installed by single person
> (all mine were by yours truely)
>* remove starter
>* remove trans wings where they go to subframe, you cheese on this, and
>you will get stuck partway down....
You mean the transmission mounting wings are best unbolted at the subframe-end,
so they will come down with the gearbox..?
>* Pop off the shift linkage
>* Remove exhaust system cat back only.... You prolly need to just remove
>the donuts and move the system back some to get the drop room, but by
>then....
>* slide clutch slave out of top of trans, no need to remove the line
>unless
The clutch slave mounted on the clutch-housing, and visible from above near the
sleeve that let's you see the flywheel (actually the marks for timing..)?
>the slave turns out to be a schtuck one, then remove the line at the MC
>side and pull trans with slave in it...
What is meant by 'schtuck one' ?? My is mounted (or secured?) by a 'spring'
clipse..
>* Find ALL the bolts, 19, 17, 15, 13mm engine to trans...
>* I put the car on jack stands (not on subframe please) then floor jack
>the trans back and down....
>* flywheel cut, ck to make sure they put the pins back in (hello) install
On an explosion-drawing I have I can see the flywheel is bolted on a flange on
the crankshaft (8 bolts); also 2 pins are shown, possibly inserted on the
gearbox side of the flywheel (drawing is not fully clear here..) Are these the
pins you refer to?? What's their function??
Must the flywheel _as a standard measure_ be cut (planed)??
>new clutch assbly, do not cut a bowl flywheel (pre 89.5 quattros), it is a
>tapered cut, that is better left just cleaned with sandpaper
>* install new seal at trans spline shaft
>* inspect your pilot bearing, it should have a rubber seal in it, if not,
>replace
That pilot bearing: is it the needle (or roller) bearing situated in the center
of the flywheel OR is it the one on the front-end (in the car's front
direction) of the transmission axle?? Is the 'bearing with rubber seal' a
modification or is a missing seal worn and has disappeared??
How do I diagnose a pilot bearing is worn??
How do I extract the defect pilot bearing from its housing??
>* Good time to add that Redline to the trans, the 17mm hex is available
> at
>sears for 8.99
Is 'Redline' a superior transmission oil?? It will not be available in the
Netherlands... :-( My car has done about 220000 kilometers, probably a
transmission-oil change will be useful??
>* lightly lube spline, do it, this is a very tight fitting trans to block
>thing
>* The last 2 inches trans to block has been a bolt draw for me every
>time...
When I see things right, the splined transmission-axle has to fit into the
splined bushing in the center of the clutch-plate??? (I did read some advise to
center that clutch-plate, when assembling and bolting on the 'clutch pressure
group' by using an old transmission axle as a guide...) When properly alined,
mounting the axle in the clutch-plate shouldn't be problematic, while the plate
has a free-moving fit on the spline of the axle.. (IMHO :-) )
>* My Bentley favourite, "install reverse of removal" one sentence=4 hours
Bentley will be beyond my horizon forever... ;-(
>* New ball joint bolts please
You mean the 6 in-hex bolts, screwing the driveshafts to the box here??
Why must these be renewed?? Far as I remember these are not self-securing
bolts..!?
Only reason I could imagine were to renew them when the heads aren't perfect
any more...
>* There are seals on the driveshaft flanges, you won't be able to salvage
>what's you got easily...
>* Most of the time all the jockying pops the shifter out of it's bulb in
>the car, just pound it back into the pocket with your palm... make sure
>the spring is underneath first...
>First time, count on 2 days, after that, you can help friends do it in
>about 8 man hours total...
Oh boy, 2 days... Over here it's freezing 6 degrees C. at day, and my garage is
not heated... :-(((
>Only difference between quattro and fwd is the removal/install of the rear
>driveshaft, about 15 more minutes.... The rear driveshaft (quattros) can
>be tied up to the side, you don't need to take it out.... The driveshaft
>carrier needs to be removed tho....
>I did a total breakdown of this procedure in my former post, I'll see if I
>can find it, but happy to share all the tricks to that one... It is not a
>huge job, and is definitely possible on the back with a floor jack, that
> is
>THE only way I've done them.... Another body helps too, cuz it is just
>LABOR.....
Do you also mean, about 80 centimeters between bottom of the car and ground
will be sufficient to do this work?? My biggest problem is, I can't make use of
a vertical lift bridge (workshop equipment).. Simple garage jacks must do the
lifting.. securing should be done with wood blocks or something like that..
>HTH. If you need more detail, ck the archives... No luck, post me again,
>I'm sure I have them somewhere....
Would be very glad if you could find them again..
As I'm only participating the list on the 'internet-by-email'-way, I cannot
check the archives.. :-(
BTW: the car has an electronic ignition system..
What is to do when I'm going to electro-weld (MIG/MAG) on the coachwork..?
Is a simple disconnecting of the battery sufficient for preventing any damage
to the ignition-system, or have parts of the system to be removed??
Hope you are willing to give me some advise on the theme and answering my
additional questions..!
Thanks a lot!
Robert
robertwil@dido.iaf.nl
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