RE: V8 quattro, 200 quattro, 90 quattro, quattro coupe

["Duff, Ian" <IDuff@charter.com>]

Here's some info on the 1990-1991 Coupe quattro. For any of the cars
you're looking at, my best advice (worth *exactly* what you've paid for
it): get an independent inspection from a knowledgeable Audi mechanic if
you are serious. The US$60-200 you spend will be the best investment you
make in this car! I love my Coupe, here is more info, so you can make a
better decision:

Performance, from tests in contemporary magazines:
Acceleration
  0-60      8.7 sec (Car & Driver)
  1/4 mi    16.5 sec @ 85 mph (Car & Driver)
  Lateral   0.79g (Car & Driver, Road & Track)
Top speed   133 mph (Car & Driver)
Braking
  from 60   138 ft (Motor Trend)

Specifications:
Engine
  Inline 5 cylinder, 2309cc, twin cam, 20 valve
  164hp @ 6000 rpm
  157lb-ft @ 4500 rpm
3232 lb curb weight (Car & Driver)

Things to look for:
1. Leaks in steering gear. Pentosin (special mineral oil based steering
gear fluid, do _NOT_, I repeat _NOT_, use plain old power steering gear
fluid) on rack, pump or ground. Big bucks for new rack, like US$1600
list, but reman can be found for around US$350, pump new is like US$250,
but there is a rebuild kit available. Common to some Audis of this
vintage.

2. Bad hydraulic pressure accumulator (aka "bomb", for its resemblance
to a Rocky and Bullwinkle gift from Boris and Natasha) - signs are a)
brake warning lite stays on 20-30 secs after car started, or b) goes on
after getting deep into brakes with engine on. US$250-ish for a new one,
PITA to replace. Common to most Audis of this vintage with hydraulic
assist.

3. A/C leaks, losing all R12 refrigerant. Could be Big Bucks for hoses,
but most often seen on the qlist is the condenser, which I got welded
for US$30, total repair including locate leak, weld, fill for around
US$220. Common to some Audis of this vintage.

4. Clutch master or slave cylinder not cylindering. Symptom on my Coupe
was clutch pedal wouldn't return all the way to rest position, needed
encouragement from my toe. Each cylinder new is about $60-70, there are
rebuild kits available, and sometimes just changing the brake fluid will
bring them back to life. Common to some Audis of this vintage.

5. Stressed rubber bits (suspension bushings, engine/trans/rear
diff/front and rear subframe mounts) going away, some form of rubber
Alzheimer's, and not doing their little bit. Just doesn't feel like a
new Audi. Car will feel *like new* when you replace them. Depends on how
bad for how much. Common to most Audis of this vintage.

6. Exhaust donuts died, letting exhaust rest on driver's side rear
halfshaft, wearing a hole thru exhaust. Exhaust is stainless steel, so
you can get it patched, and get 3 new chain reinforced donuts from
Techtonics for US$6 each. Unique to 20v engine cars, i.e. Coupe and
90q20v

7. Rear hatch squeaks. Fix is at best free, adjustment or lube, at worst
short $$ for new latch pins. Unique to Coupes.

8. Loose inner tie rod ends - squirrelly and some clunks turning at low
speed. Free fix, just a 15mm (I think) wrench. Also alignment, check
tire wear. Unique to Coupes.

9. Electrical switch lights burnt out. Switches are typically around
US$60 each, to fix a US$1 bulb available from Radio Shaft, for which
there are descriptions of "how to" in the archives. Common to most Audis
of this vintage.

10. Right front wheel bearing died. Replacement quote from dealer was
over US$550, US$250 for bearing and US$300 for hub. Got the bearing for
US$60, didn't need hub, replaced for US$60. Common to some Audis of this
vintage.

There were at least four major upgrades:
1. Airbag, starting with chassis number 1109 (according to Bentley
>Electrical Manual), fairly obvious knee bar under steering wheel on airbag
>cars gives it away, package shelf there on bomb-less ones.
>
2. Tubular stainless steel header changed to a cast iron manifold
starting with chassis number 13611 (according to parts fiche).

3. Sway bars changed from just a front, to front and rear, starting with
chassis number 3682 (according to parts fiche).

4. The sunroof changed from steel to smoked glass, parts fiche says
started with 8/89 build date.

5? US Coupes have an anti-theft system, I think Canadian versions don't.
This is speculation, based on the fact that one of the guys I work with
bought one after he saw mine, it has no anti-theft, and we think it's of
Canadian origin.

Price:
I paid US$11K for mine in August 1995, with 63K miles, new tires and the
60K service completed. I think that was fair verging on high (bought it
from a <gasp> dealer). Mine was not spotless, but was in good shape,
with a pretty spiff aftermarket stereo. Others have recently gone for
about US$8K (tons of miles, *not* spotless) to US$16K (immaculate,
engine tweaked, upgraded suspension, bigger wheels/tires).

Rare:
There were only 1730 imported to the US (according to AoA, not sure
about Canada), so if you find one that looks good for a fair price, jump
on it.

HTH. Good luck, the Coupe is a complete blast to drive and own!

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ian Duff, 1990 Coupe quattro 20v, Red/Black
quattro Owners Club member P877

Home: New Bedford, MA, USA
Work: Charter Systems, Inc., West Newton, MA, USA
------------------------------------------------------------------------

>----------
>From: 	Mike Jundt[SMTP:mjundt@mr.net]
>Sent: 	Friday, 24 January, 1997 09:59 AM
>To: 	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: 	V8 quattro, 200 quattro, 90 quattro, quattro coupe
>
>I have owned an 86 5000TQ before that I bought with high mileage and ended
>up putting quite q bit of money into it. I am now looking at one of the
>following cars and was wondering if any one new of any problems I should
>look for on each of these models:
>90 or 91 200 Quattro
>90 or 91 20V 90 Quattro
>90 or 91 Quattro coupe
>90 V8 Quattro
>Also, I have noticed in some sale ads for the 200 and V8 that they
>sometimes say that the front brakes have been retrofitted back to the
>regular discs. I know on the V8 they came out with a new design that put
>the caliper in the "center" rather than on the outside of the rotor. Was
>there a problem with this design and is it a major expense or problem with
>the car?
>Thanks for any info any of you can share!
>
>