4k Inner Door Panel Repair (long)

[David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net>]

Allan Jones <ampj@tiac.net> wrote:

> I have just recently(I am amazed at the timing of the list sometimes!) 
> started to worry about such problem on my doors, and it seems like a 
> worrisome problem indeed. My interior is in need of more than just a 
> spring-time cleaning!

Over the 7 years we had the car, the red vinyl on three of the four door
panels shrunk back from under the metal trim which separates the padded,
colored panel from the black at the top.  When the first one got bad
enough that something had to be done, I took it to a local upholsterer,
a retired USAF Major or Lt. Colonel who liked to sew. (?)  He almost
forced me to help him repair it, and charged very little.  The other two
I did myself, at home.  We sold the car in '94 to a friend, and the door
upholstery is still fine.  AFAIK, this procedure is not in Bentley.

Materials:  contact cement; 3/16" foot staples (can use the std. 1/4",
but shorter is best).

Tools:  3" drywall taping knife (_thin_); two 1/8" flat-blade
screwdriver w/ blades about 2-1/2" long; X-Acto knife or sharp scissors;
pliers w/ wide contact areas, padded if sharp; hair dryer.

The first thing to do is remove the inner door panel, as outlined in
Bentley.  Then remove the trim strip, carefully, w/o bending it.  There
are pairs of notches top and bottom which allow access to compress the
plastic clips.  You can see the clips from the back side of the door
panel.  Use the screwdrivers together, one in each notch, to compress a
clip.  Use the taping knife to pop a stubborn section over the
compressed clip, but be careful not to nick the vinyl.

Once the trim is off, you'll see the foam in back.  Because the vinyl
seems to have shrunk, you'll probably need to remove about 1/2" of the
foam to allow it to go back together.  Cut back just that much and you
won't notice later that it's gone, more than that and the panel will
look a little funny near the trim strip.  You should then be able to
pull the vinyl up to where the trim strip will cover it, but if not, use
the hair dryer to heat the vinyl and stretch it that little bit extra. 
Use your fingers to grip the vinyl if possible, to avoid the risk of
tearing it w/ the pliers.  When stretching, try to pull from close to
where the vinyl is still anchored, then farther out, and farther, 'til
you get to the edge; this will distribute the thinning, and reduce the
chance of a tear.

When you're happy w/ how the vinyl fits, glue everything in place w/
contact cement, and use the staples at the top, under where the trim
strip goes.  It's best to staple w/ the panel backed securely by a 2x4
sitting on a workbench, so as not to chance cracking the masonite.  How
much glue is a bit of a judgement call-- too much on the vinyl side and
the vinyl will get a little hard, not enough and you won't get a secure
bond.  Use the hair dryer to accelerate the initial tackiness of the
glue, to allow a little more stretch in the vinyl, and to promote
setting after everything is in place.

Reinstall the trim strip.  It's easiest if you brace the back of the
panel on a workbench, so the clips stay where they belong.

Esp. if you've used 1/4" staples, you'll see that the points protrude
slightly through the back of the panel.  Bend the points over if you
can, but don't sweat it too much.  Use the contact cement to glue on a
piece of vinyl or thin foam over the staple points, to protect your
moisture barrier.

Reinstall the door panel in the car, and voila!

Good luck,

--Dave Weiss
  '91 V8 5-spd
  '93 90CS UnQ