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RE: 86 C-GT H2Opump leakage and head war
From: ampj
>Paul Heneghan wrote:
>> . . . . If you lose all the coolant, then you will have a head
>> warp problem - this will expose the fact that half your exhaust manifold
>> studs are broken (or will break when manifold is removed) etc.
> Will the head warp EVEN if the oil temp does NOT rise above the normal
>level. My pump started to go without my knowledge, and I just thought
>the coolant was low causing the gauge to flash. When I finally did
>notice the leaking fluid and opened the hood, I found an empty expansion
>tank, but it took only one and maybe another one-quarter(1 1/4)
>anti-freeze jugs of fluid to raise the level back to normal. The car had
>been running for maybe a half an hour with the fluid level low, but the
>oil temp gauge never rose at all(not one LED light-I kept an eye on it).
>With that knowledge, do you think my head was damaged?!?
You're probably OK. My experience of warping heads comes from my parents
driving a Toyota with no coolant until the engine lost all power! I put a
new head gasket in which it blew in less than 50 miles. Then I had the head
skimmed and that sorted the problem out.
It's usually fairly obvious when the head gasket is blown - massive
overheating, or mixing coolant with oil (mayonaise in expansion tank or
mayonaise on oil filler cap).
>> I know it's a pain in the neck to do, but you need to grasp the nettle
and
>> do it sooner rather than later. It's all routine stuff apart from
removing
>> crank nut - I can't remember if you need to do this to get at the pump -
I
>> think you do (I have tool 2084 if you want to borrow it - it's heavy, so
>> postage might be expensive).
> Is that tool all that is really neccessary to purchase outside of the
>usual wrenches and sockets?
Yes (and a 4ft breaker bar to put over the end of your t-bar to exert the
332ftlbs of torque necessary to undo and redo the crank bolt - often much
more is required to undo it).
Paul
paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk
1984 Audi 80 quattro
1989 Audi 100 Avant