hydralic lifter noise

[quk@sievers.com (Phil Payne)]

In message <337E75A9.1DA4@cotl.com> Rusty Rae writes:
> Well I am having some hydralic liter noise, the tapping sounds, what has
> anybody done to cure this problem, short of rebuilding the engine. I
> have heard the replacing the lifters does not always work? But if it
> does how hard is it to do and how much do a set of liftes for the I-5
> engines cost?

The lifters run around $16 each - you need ten if you're going to do the set.  
Replacing them _will_ cure the problem - if that's what it is.  An oil change
and a new filter (with non-return valve) might help.
 
Otherwise - change the lifters.  It's a 4 to 5 hour job for a novice on an easy 
engine, and 10 hours for an expert on a difficult one (like my MB).  Set the 
engine to TDC #1, remove the cam cover, remove the timing belt cover and slip 
off the timing belt, take off the cam pulley (toughest part of the job), undo 
the camshaft mountings and lift out the camshaft.  Beware - it's heavier than 
it looks.  Don't scratch the lobes.  Put the camshaft and the bearing caps down 
so you can reinstall everything exactly as it was.  The lifters just lift out - 
they're about the size of the individual pots of marmalade the hotel chains use.
I think it's a good idea to soak the new lifters in Mobil 1 overnight.

Retorquing the camshaft caps and the camshaft pulley needs care - the camshaft 
runs directly in the metal of the head, so there are no bearing shells.  Ruin 
one of these bearings, and it's a new head.  The caps are asymmetric - not 
obvious at first.  It's not wise to let the cam turn more than a very few 
degrees when removing and refitting the pulley. Set everything back to TDC 
(don't forget to check the distributor), slip the timing belt back on and 
replace the covers.
 
You should replace the camshaft oil seal while you're in there.  A rubber cam 
cover gasket is also a good idea - check that the reinforced holes fit right 
down over the studs, they're shouldered.  Having done both lifters and seal, 
you'll need to reset the CO, etc.

Some engines don't let you in so easily.  You can't remove the timing belt 
cover on an MB without removing the hydraulic pump (leave the hoses on) and you 
can't do that without removing the auxiliary radiator - which involves 
partially draining the coolant and removing the transom, which contains the 
bonnet release cable. Plus there's a whole lot of furniture on top of the MB 
engine that has to come off. If it's a US engine with a side-mounted vacuum 
pump - take that off before starting.
 
--
 Phil Payne
 phil@sievers.com
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club