What product?

[Steinbru@VNET.IBM.COM]

Most times I use clear household ammonia if it is rust.  Put a drop on the
threads and watch it wick in after a second, then wet it up.  It usually
takes a few minutes, but on longer threads, hours might be needed.

For reference, I just freed up the crank starter on my old International
FarmAll --it took several days.  It was a 2" diameter by 4" or 5" long
iron bushing inside a cast iron boss, and had probably not moved in
40yr.  I needed to replace the fan belt after all that time.  When I
have to free up the packer on my seldom used baler, it takes a gallon
and several hours.  When it's working on such a large part, the ammonia
(gas) comes off in waves.

Car parts are usually muuuuch easier.  Mike A, how did you finally get
the hitch out of your Da'Lan receiver??

Liquid wrench and wd-40 are standbys for lesser problems too and help
when there are other metals than iron involved.  Maybe someday I'll get
a good explanation of what the NH4OH does to the Fe2O4 or whatever.
Somebody hinted that the ferrous becomes ferric which is more soluable,
but I don't know for sure.  Any chemists out there?

--Gary ('86's:5ks&5ktq+'87CGT)

--REFERENCE--------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 08:03:17 =0400
From: Allan Jones <ampj@tiac.net>
Subject: What product?

List,
	What product should I use to soak bolts and nuts in order to free them
up(loosen) from being frozen due to rust, whatever? How long in advance
do I spray the nuts and bolts to make it easier? With the suggested
product, is easiness a function of time soaked? Thank you all!
  _____   _____________     ____________________________________
  ALLAN   ampj@tiac.net      1986 COMMEMORATIVE DESIGN COUPE GT
  JONES   Burlington MA      169K Miles And Still Needing Work!