RE: 5kcstq Perfromance Rebuild

[Larry Augsburger <71564.2244@compuserve.com>]

Hey Dan, thanks for the reply, let's compare notes:

>    Brett,
>
>     I haven't heard from you in a while.  Anyways, I have given this subject
>much thought as to what I would do if I hit the jackpot and rebuilt, or were
>forced to rebuild the engine in my 5kcstq.  On the oversized valves, increased
>bore, larger pistons, and extrude honing, I can't say much, or whether it would
>be worth the cost, but I have some opinions about most of the other stuff.
>Here it goes:
>
>      * Definately have the head ported and polished when it is off.

Good advice (at least about porting). However, when I have the heads extrude honed they
will take car of all this. In fact I am sending the heads to the Extrude Hone guys
after I have the new valve seats installed and the seats rough cut. They will take care
of all porting from there (they are going to match the ports to the new seats as well as 
Extrude Hone Head, Intake and Exhaust Manifold (new two-piece) and match port everything 
to the head. After all honing and porting has been completed, the head will be returned
to the valve guys to finish the valve cutting and lapping.

>
>      * I highly reccomend going to the later model 200 10V cam and the
>        updated 2-piece exhaust manifold.  The 2-pieces flow better too!
>
Yep, both will be done.

>      * As for the Total Seal piston rings, I highly reccomend them!
>
Yes, I want to use a gapless second ring, but my research indicates that the Zero Gap
rings from Childs and Albert do a better job of this because they have a stepped, 
overlapping gap. With Total Seal rings it is possible for the two rings to rotate in
a position such as the gaps are aligned producing blow-by. I still haven't called Childs 
and Albert to inquire about price.

>       * Raceware head studs - but of course!  What else do they make, EM
>       studs???  I think they also make connecting rod bolts although I doubt
>       they have them for the Audis.
>
Umm, doesn't the engine use head bolts instead of studs? EM studs is definately a
good idea, also. Connecting rod bolts are supposed to be pretty strong from the factory.

>     * replace all vaccum and breather hoses.
>
Naturally.

>     * While you're in there, make sure you replace all valve guides and seals
>       -replace with the updated "green" seals.  Maybee someone else can
>       supply part numbers.
>
Agreed

>     * replace hydraulic lifters.
>
Of course!

>     * also do timming belt and idler pulley - but of course, you knew that!
>
>     Also, just replace your injectors!  You can replace them for cheaper than
>having them professionally cleaned and balanced.  Also the origonal injectors
>have metal tips, and leak with age.  They have since been replaced with the
>viton tipped ones which are much better!  They are about $15 a piece.  BTDT.
>
>      PN  035 133 551F    Call 1-800-VW-PARTS.  Ask for Eric.
>
Didn't know you could get these suckers for so cheap! But how well are they matched 
from the factory?

>     If your looking for a good machine shop, well in the Alabama area, gee,
>probably no one!  But, I remember Mike Tipton reccomending a place somewhere in
>the Southeast.  Mike, care to comment???
>
Yes, Alabama certainly does suck when it comes to performance tuners (as well as many
other things). I think I have located a good shop for the head work, still looking for
someone to do the block for me, though.

>      Well, I hope some of this helped.  Good luck with the rebuild.  Just take
>your time and do it right!  Also, can I drive it when your done??? ;)
>
I would be disappointed if you wouldn't!

>      Later,
>      Dan
>
>   ex- Audi 5000CSTQ
>   looking for a RELIABLE Jeep!

Hey Dan, what do you mean ex-Audi 5000cstq? Excuse me if you were being sarcastic,
but I believe "RELIABLE Jeep" is an oxymoron!

Later,

Brett Augsburger
'86 5000cstq (in boxes and bins)