Re: a little help if you have the time...

["Mike Hopton" <mike@genesis-microchip.on.ca>]

     I don't know how applicable the following things are to check with 
     respect to a 20v ur-q but they're certainly important for the 10v 
     cars:-
     
     Check the intercooler to throttle body hose for creases/distortion. A 
     creased or distorted hose can mean that the engine support on the 
     exhaust side has collapsed. Very common.
     
     A stiff clutch m/c can cause cracks in the firewall, this is 
     definitely the case with LHD cars.
     
     Check the bomb by depressing the brake pedal with the engine off. It 
     should take at least 20 presses before the brake pedal goes soft.
     
     On the WX/WR cars check for leaking fluid between the brake m/c and 
     the hydraulic booster. If it's red (Dextron 2) there is a hydraulic 
     fluid leak, if it's clear the brake m/c is leaking.
     
     Check for water leaking from the bonnet cable release onto the drivers 
     floor (again LHD). On early cars with the fuse box located below the 
     steering wheel a water leak can be very messy. At the same time check 
     the relay and fuse panels for heat damage.
     
     HTH someone, regards, Mike