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From: quattro-digest [SMTP:quattro@coimbra.ans.net]
To: quattro-digest [SMTP:quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net]
Date: 1997-12-15 20:15
Subject: quattro-digest V4 #1487
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
quattro-digest Monday, December 15 1997 Volume 04 : Number 1487
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
Nefarious Forces and towing a q
Diff lock problem?
RE: tech manual required
re: METALRAD
Re: cams & heads
4ks idle : settings and ECU function
rear drum brakes seizing... help!
Re: C-GT elect. problem solved
Pikes Peak 98' !!!!!
Vehicle Info / Fluids / Suspension Noises
RE: Living Daylights 200q
Crossed wires
Re: Coatings
Survey, 86-88 5k rack(your response is desired)
Re: rear drum brakes seizing... help!
Re: Survey, 86-88 5k rack(your response is desired)
Fwd: timing belt
Re: Squealin'
4kQ Power Steering Pump Gone... :o(
which synth MTL?!
re: Squealin'
Re: Driveline slack
Re: Exhaust manifold questions...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 20:51:18 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Nefarious Forces and towing a q
In message <199712151845.NAA29721@coimbra.ans.net> Malcolm White writes:
> ...when my S4 Avant went bang today.
Is this the one that was on the lift at BR Motorsport a week or so ago with
handbrake/rear disk problems?
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 13:16:39 -0800
From: Jad Duncan <Jad.Duncan@GAT.COM>
Subject: Diff lock problem?
I have an '89 90q with a problem. About two weeks ago while driving up a
straight hill on the freeway in San Diego at 65mph, the anti-lock off light
appeared on the dash. I looked down and the diff lock lights were both on
(the yellow one in the switch and the green one in the little picture).
They all went off as I got close to the top of the hill and the car always
seemed to run fine. The same thing happened in the same place about two
days later, but has never happened anywhere else. The problem is, I have
tried to engage the diff lock to test it since it has not been used in 9+
months of Southern Calif driving and am leaving for a ski trip shortly.
When I push the button, the yellow switch light comes on, but not the green
diff lock light or the anti-lock off light. Does this problem sound
familiar? I am assuming the Quattro system still works fine and I should
be able to get around fine in the snow without the diff lock, is this a
good assumption?
Please provide any ideas you may have.
Thanks.
Jad
jad.duncan@gat.com
*****************************************
*** Jad Duncan ***********************
*** Contract Administrator **********
*** General Atomics *****************
*** (619) 455-4561 *******************
*** (619) 455-3545 fax ***************
*****************************************
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 22:53:08 -0800
From: Flemming Christensen <fl.christensen@get2net.dk>
Subject: RE: tech manual required
Horvath,
You may want to try a german publisher I found today:
http://www.delius-klasing.de (books in german)
I don't know about the quality, but I guess it would be the same as the
Haynes.
Regards
Flemming Christensen
fl.christensen@get2net.dk
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 16:50:50
From: Dave Conner <conner@grinten.cfm.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: re: METALRAD
Rick asks where to get all metal radiators...
Three weeks ago...Blaufergnugen >told< me theirs are all metal.
I bought from European Precision and can say for sure theirs are NOT all
metal, contrary to what they told me on the phone.
Dave C.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 15:00:59 -0700
From: "Bruce Bell" <bbell@bbell.com>
Subject: Re: cams & heads
Unka Bart, that is an intriguing idea! So much so I'll
take it a little further. I thought, if one goes to this
effort, why not start with a top notch head from Eurospec.
So I called them. Expecting to be laughed off the face of
the earth. Bruce at EuroSpec, to my surprise, actually is
interested in casting the 5 cyl. heads. Seems the VW market
is slowing down and they want to move more toward Audi.
So if you want one of these or think you might, call Bruce
at (408) 848-4203 ext. 229.
For those of you who don't know of EuroSpec, they make a
killer high flowing head for the 8 valve VW's. I have
never done business with them or used their products, so
I'll let others on the list speak to their mettle.
Merry Christmas!
Bruce
> Bruce Bell reflects:
> > QSHIPQ said:
> > > Those mechanical valve heads may not be sea anchors
after
> > >all...
>
> > This takes me back
......
> > Audi let us down during the evolution of the 5
> > cyl. head. To my knowledge there never was a 5 cyl.
> > counterpart to the '83 US GTI head.
....
> > providing all the benefits Scott is implying because
> > solid lifter heads flow better.
> >
> > Did a head like that ever exist in the European
markets?
>
> Quien Sabe? But did you see the article in VW & Porsche
(before it became
> EC) about the guy who built a 4-cyl 911 engine by cutting
one cyl off the
> end of each of two engines, then joining the singletons
to form a four?
>
> Wonder if such a scheme would work with heads...? And if
so, could one
> build a head for a UR-Q from '83 GTI heads thataway...?
>
> Bart
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 16:05:50 CST
From: roger@mostro.sps.mot.com (Roger Albert)
Subject: 4ks idle : settings and ECU function
Hi all,
So, my intermittent motor bog on my dear 86 4ks took a drastic turn for
the worse Saturday night. The beast just went horribly lean (happened to
have my 02 meter in the glovebox). I tinkered a bit and eventually got
it limped home, though it was running really, really poorly, essentially
only >=3krpm, by the time I hit the driveway. Looks like I'd temporarily
compensated for the lean condition and then it went away, leaving me with
horribly fouled plugs, and, no real idea of where my mixture or idle air
screws are in relation to where they ought to be. Can't get it to run
well enough to even do the basic setup/adjust routine. So, is there a good
basic position to return everything to as a starting point. On carbs, you
typically go something like "mixure all the way in and then back out 3/4 turn"
- or - Idle screw adjusted till it just lifts from stop, and then in 1 turn.
Ideas? This would be easy for the idle air screw (anyone know how far out
theirs is from all the way in?) but harder for the mixture. Short of dis
assembly and then counting threads, is there a way, say full in or full out,
and then x turns out or in from there? -or- would the screw just fall out
it I backed it out too far?
I'd be thrilled for any help. I've really screwed this up but good. ARghh!
Oh yeah, so I've noticed that I can get it to sort of run (idles too high
and still virtually undriveable, but at least does idle) by disconnecting
the idle switch. The switch, its adjustment, and voltage supply are all fine.
I'm not theorizing the switch is bad, but rather that the absence of the
"throttle-closed" signal just happens to help. So, in that spirit, does
anyone know what the ECU attempts to do, based on that signal. Enrich?
Lean-out? Raise-idle? Knowing that might well give me more info as to
which way I need to go on the mixture. Note: the thing surges and hunts
so badly that the O2 meter is of no use. The motor _does_ appear to be
attempting to control, thus the surging.
Thanks again for any tips on either initial settings, or knowledge as to
what the ECU does with the idle switch position info.
regards
roger
===================================================
Roger Albert (go Illini!) Motorola. Austin, Texas
roger@mostro.sps.mot.com Wireless/DSP Div. 56xxx
Red 94 Ducati M900 Monster and White 65 BMW R60/2
Blue 1976 BMW R90/6 and 1974 R90/6 Sidecar project
1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado, restoration now underway!
1986 Audi 4000S -- Yup, sometimes you need 4 wheels
- ---------------------------------------------------
Opinions expressed are always mine --, never Moto's
===================================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 15:12:21 -0500
From: Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>
Subject: rear drum brakes seizing... help!
I should have posted this a few days ago...
Having just redone the rear drums on my 82 Coupe, the left side which
only needed new shoes is seizing - the self adjuster wedge ends up too
far down and all but jams the brakes. Anyone BTDT and figured out what
was wrong?
Thanks!
- --
Huw Powell
http://www.thebook.com/human-speakers
82 (+/-) Audi Coupe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 17:22:36 -0500
From: Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: C-GT elect. problem solved
> Grounds, GROUNDS, _GROUNDS!!!_. Loose connectors, bad contacts,
> corrosion, and bad/intermittent grounds probably account for 60% of the
> electrical problems on these cars.
I was going to chime in and say 90% but...
> Another 20% is probably due to shoddy wiring "repair" done by someone
> in a hurry --- beware of strange electrical tape and odd butt-splice
> connectors.
You got me there! for some reason people alway fix electrical problems
the cheapest, quickest, usually sloppiest wya possible and then drive on
like it's as good as new. This also goes for a lot of stereo and alarm
installations.
> like headlight switches that carry the full current of the circuit
to say nothing of parking light circuits that carry the full current of
four high beam filaments on "flash to pass" - beware coupe/4k type
owners! Your switch socket and switch are melting as we speak....
just my thirty or fourty cents...
- --
Huw Powell
http://www.thebook.com/human-speakers
82 (+/-) Audi Coupe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 14:29:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>
Subject: Pikes Peak 98' !!!!!
Three Word,
YES! YES! YES!
I'll be there if I can. I truly enjoyed it last year. I know there are
three of us that want to come next year. If we can, we will. IF we
can't, I'm sure some of us will. The three are ME(Todd Phenneger), Adam
Dieckerhoff (86' 5ktq), and Erik Manz(uh, dad has a 4kcsq)
I think the reserved parking is definately a high point. As is
the staying together that Unka Bart was speaking of. I really enjoyed
haning out with everyone. Learned so much more about Audi's too. And we
even had a lister from the Netherlands come. That was a real treat to
learn more and see pictures of cars and factories over ther.
So YES, lets do it again. Especially if it is the last year. All
the more reason. Steamboat sounds like a blast but I know I cant make it.
Maybe nest year.
And as for a Track event for us in Pikes Peak, that sounds great.
The PCA event that many of us went to after the "RAce to the Clouds" was
fun. Too bad we couldnt' get out there. I would be willign to stay an
extra day to hit a track!
Hope we do it, I want to.
L8R
Todd Phenneger aka: Zarati
1984 4000s quattro / New Red Paint
2.5" Borla SS Exhaust / Boge Turbo Gas Shocks
15" Wheels & 205/50 ZR15 Bridgestone RE-71s
Considering a Turbo Conversion :)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 22:31:29 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Vehicle Info / Fluids / Suspension Noises
In message <Pine.HPP.3.95.971215140631.28378F-100000@hp25.cpdc.ece.nwu.edu>
"Mark L. Chang" writes:
> 3) Now that I've driven the car a little more, I am getting a little
> worried about some of the noises she makes when she takes a hard bump.
> Sounds like something is 'clunking' a little up front.
It could be all the things you mention - it could simply be the brake caliper
carrier bolts.
The diagnostic is to reverse at a walking pace with the drivers window open.
Stop the car, drive forwards at the same pace and brake. If you hear a loud
click - it's the carrier bolts.
If you get a clunk steering wildly from side to side at very low speeds - it
might be the rack mounting bolts. Again, very cheap.
- --
Phil Payne
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 15:40:28 -0700
From: "Horch, August" <Horch.August@tci.com>
Subject: RE: Living Daylights 200q
> I saw a similar car while on vacations this year. Old style door
> handles, old style dashboard, but with flared fenders and mesh-style
> rims with wide tyres.
>
'Tis an add-on that used to be available from ABT. There's a grey '87
TQ with flared wells parked right next to teh exhaust I need to get rid
of...
- -August
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 22:49:19 -0000
From: "Ian J Haseltine" <jim_haseltine@email.msn.com>
Subject: Crossed wires
You might find this slightly amusing.
By chance this evening I was talking to a guy who turned out to be a fellow
Urq owner and got onto the subject of the lack of information and manuals
etc, when I mentioned that I had a number of Bentleys.
To which he asked "do you collect cars then?"
It was only later that the penny dropped and I worked out that he thought
that I had refered to the four-wheeled 'Bentley' as in Mulsanne and Turbo R.
I hope that he didnt leave thinking "Rich bastard" - after all, I drive an
Urq - "rich" no way.
Jim Haseltine
88 Ur quattro
BTW - Received a 'Merry Christmas' complements slip from Dialynx today,
complete with tax disc holder. Wont be using it but its the thought that
counts - although the 1000+GBP that I've spent with them this year might
have something to do with it......
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 12:51:07 -0500
From: "Mike Hopton" <mike@genesis-microchip.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Coatings
Not sure I follow Scott's argument. As I understand, my engine runs a
lot hotter during spirited driving and it's this peak heat production
that's a concern. Coating the EM helps transfer this heat further
along the exhaust system. As you insulate more of the system e.g.
turbo hot side and down pipe you can help transfer this heat further
from the engine? The exhaust gas speed is maintained (probably higher)
because the inside of the manifold and pipes are insulated, and hotter
than they would be without the coating.
> * Heat coating works well when the engine is running, increasing
> the exhaust velocity. When an engine stops running, that coating
> becomes an insulator. Given the exhaust and underhood temps, not
> sure I'd consider the heat coating a great thing.
On shutting off the engine the properties of the coating don't change?
I agree that a coated (insulated) manifold will reduce the heatsink
effect after shut down BUT the system should be cooler to begin with?
With a reasonable wind down period it seems like a good idea to me.
Regards, Mike
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 17:05:13 -0600 (CST)
From: nuthatch@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Survey, 86-88 5k rack(your response is desired)
I'm doing a survey on how long the original 1986-1988 5k rack lasts.
Consensus is that it doesn't seem to last that long. I suppose that I'll get
a lot of responses of 100 to 150k. But I'd like to know if some last longer.
Please mail me direct at
Nuthatch@ix.netcom.com
If I get enough responses I'll post the results on the list.
**Survey Question (Applies to 1986 though 1988 Audi 5000's)
How many miles are on your original factory equipt steering rack?
Paul Hutchinson
Kenosha, Wisconsin
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 23:07:01 -0000
From: "Ian J Haseltine" <jim_haseltine@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: rear drum brakes seizing... help!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>
>Having just redone the rear drums on my 82 Coupe, the left side which
>only needed new shoes is seizing - the self adjuster wedge ends up too
>far down and all but jams the brakes. Anyone BTDT and figured out what
>was wrong?
How old/worn are the drums? The wear limit is only +1mm, if the drum is even
only slightly oval, it could be enough for the self adjuster to cause
binding.
Jim Haseltine
88 Ur quattro
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 18:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Pollan <Mark.POLLAN@MCI.COM>
Subject: Re: Survey, 86-88 5k rack(your response is desired)
>How many miles are on your original factory equipt steering rack?
Before it leaks a little bit, or before it leaks like a sieve?
Mark Pollan, '86 5KCSTQ 243K Miles
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 18:43:44 EST
From: Nonyracing <Nonyracing@aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: timing belt
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --part0_882229424_boundary
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In a message dated 97-12-15 12:22:22 EST, Nonyracing writes:
<< My timing belt broke about a week ago and just yesterday I've managed to
get a new one on. Flywheel is at zero, intermediate shaft mark is aligned
with crankshaft pulley mark, and camshaft sproket timing mark is at the valve
cover. The distributor rotor is aligned with the mark on the housing. Can the
head be damaged? I've heard this can't happen to the Audi head. I also hear
valve damage can occur to any head. I do not know what else to do but perform
a compression test. I have performed most of the work on this car myself and
don't want to pay a mechanic(dealer or not) to diagnose it. Do you have any
ideas? Maybe the list can help? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tony
NONYRACING@AOL.COM
1987 Audi 4000s 1.8 4 cyl. Eibach, BOGE turbo gas, K&N, hollow cat, >>
- --part0_882229424_boundary
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From: Nonyracing <Nonyracing@aol.com>
Return-path: <Nonyracing@aol.com>
To: dans@ans.net
Subject: timing belt
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 12:22:22 EST
Organization: AOL (http://www.aol.com)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Dan, hello. My name is Tony and I read the list archives when I have time. My
problem. My timing belt broke about a week ago and just yesterday I've
managed to get a new one on. Flywheel is at zero, intermediate shaft mark is
aligned with crankshaft pulley mark, and camshaft sproket timing mark is at
the valve cover. The distributor rotor is aligned with the mark on the
housing. Can the head be damaged? I've heard this can't happen to the Audi
head. I also hear valve damage can occur to any head. I do not know what else
to do but perform a compression test. I have performed most of the work on
this car myself and don't want to pay a mechanic(dealer or not) to diagnose
it. Do you have any ideas? Maybe the list can help? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Tony
NONYRACING@AOL.COM
1987 Audi 4000s 1.8 4 cyl. Eibach, BOGE turbo gas, K&N, hollow cat,
- --part0_882229424_boundary--
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 15:58:36 -0800
From: Michael Williams <daserde@ucla.edu>
Subject: Re: Squealin'
Shane Allen Snyder decided to speak these words:
>My '86 4kcsq is making a squealing sound at idle. More like a
>eeeeeeh-eeeeeeeh-eeeeeeeh.... also most a prolonged chirp. When I throttle
>up the sound disappears, but there is a whine, sounds like a turbo. Any
>ideas
>on how to diagnose this? Most likely producers of this type of sound? The
>belts are all new, except the timing belt (way overdue)....
Well, do you have a turbo in that car?
Michael Sheridan Williams
My new one: 1985 4000 S Quattro
172,000+ miles, and going like a new car
1985 Coupe GT(for sale, cheap, $1000)
163,000+ miles
http://members.aol.com/daserde2
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 97 16:06:52 -0800
From: Michael Williams <daserde@ucla.edu>
Subject: 4kQ Power Steering Pump Gone... :o(
I made a fatal error today. When i was driving across the bay bridge, i
voiced my surprise that i have gone 10000 miles without needing to go to
a mechanic in my new 4kQ. Well, apparently the Audi gods heard my
satisfacton and decided to throw in a little bit of a reality check. I
was on a dirt parking lot, having a little bit of fun with the new Q,
when i was about to leave i had to do a U turn, so i put it to full lock
and hit the gas. in mid U turn, i heard a loud grind, not unlike when
you grind your gears in a missed shift, and i immediately pulled over to
the side of the road. I then noticed that i had no more power
steering...not good. Then while i got hte bently, with the car off i had
my friend try and bleed the system a little by having him turn the wheels
lock to lock a few times, well, that wasnt too smart as it only succeeded
in squirting ATF all over my engine bay and onto the hood. A red
fountain, wonderful....Well, my drive home was interesting, and it seemed
like the steering was fighting with me for control of the car. Not good
again...
OK, i am pretty sure that it is the pump, so the good news is that i have
a nice coupe GT sitting in my driveway just taking up space, and i was
thinking that maybei could take that pump and throw it into the Q for a
while. I am trying to sell the coupe, but no one seems to be interested.
If this is not possible, does anyone know of a source that i could get a
good, cheap used pump?
Anyway, i have heard that the procedure is quite easy from two sources so
far, so i am going to attempt it myself.
Can anyone tell me of any gotchas involved with this?
Thanks in advance...
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 16:08:19 -0800
From: Ken <kkeith@qnet.com>
Subject: which synth MTL?!
OK, I want to put synthetic tranny fluid in my '86 Coupe GT.
I'd like to go with RedLine.
They offer "more than one". Which one should I use? Are
there listers who've tried different ones?
Also, does the shifter require some type of alignment when
it is bolted onto the "rod" that protrudes out of the rear
of the tranny? It seemed like it "fit" a certain way, but
my gears tend to barely catch ever since I replaced the
clutch.
Could this problem be caused directly from the new clutch,
or is it more possible that it is the mechanical alignment
of the shifter on the rod? Or, should I focus more on the
type/amount of trans fluid in the tranny? I changed the
tranny fluid when I was in there messing with the clutch
replacement.
It seems to be worse when it's colder. (aha! someone
please tell me what that means!)
BTW, please excuse my typos in my "electrical problem solved"
post!
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 16:09:48 -0800
From: Ken <kkeith@qnet.com>
Subject: re: Squealin'
"Shane Allen Snyder" <snyders2@pilot.msu.edu> wrote:
>
> My '86 4kcsq is making a squealing sound at idle. More like a
> eeeeeeh-eeeeeeeh-eeeeeeeh.... also most a prolonged chirp. When I
throttle
> up the sound disappears, but there is a whine, sounds like a turbo. Any
ideas
> on how to diagnose this? Most likely producers of this type of sound? The
> belts are all new, except the timing belt (way overdue)....
>
> TIA, Shane
Hmmm... If the belts are definitely new, I'd say to check the tension
on them.
The turbo whine? Sounds like an Audi 5 cylinder.
If I were to have to diagnose it, I'd probably try to determine which
belt it is. First try just to look and listen with the hood up standing
in front of the car revving the throttle. If you can't tell, and it
bothers you enough, you could begin by removing the A/C belt, seeing if
it goes away, then the power steering belt, then the alternator belt. I
wouldn't drive this way, just for diagnosis.
It's most likely a belt, just as you might think. I'm curious to hear
that it's the throttle body screw, tho'.
Oh yeah, I'd replace the timing belt.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 17:06:18 -0800 (PST)
From: J S <quattros@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Driveline slack
At 09:58 AM 12/15/97 -0500, you wrote:
<snip>
>I have (obviously) learned to live with the problem, but it is still
quite annoying. The strange thing is, that my girlfriend's Toyota
Turdcel has recently been infected with what seems like the exact same
problem!
>
>So does this still sound like the center support bearing? If so, why
would the FWD Toyota do the same thing? Is there a way to check the
bearing? Can anyone point me to the "deceleration valve" or any other
trouble spots in the intake?
My 1986 4000S had the exact same problem, so it is not something that
is only limited to the inline 5's or quattro. I would be interested
in hearing about the "decelartion valve." I would put my money on
the problem being related to that, or something similar.
Regards,
John
90quattro20v
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 20:02:07 -0800
From: Mike Zamikhovsky <MikeZ755@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold questions...
Jeffrey J. Goggin wrote:
>
> Here's another matter I'd like some input on ... I assume that when I
> (finally) get the exhaust manifold off, I'm going to find it cracked and, if
> not, with 86k on the car, I figure it will crack sometime soon.
>
> I have the Extrude-Honed exhaust manifold from Ben Howell's pre-V8 Ur-Q and
> the cracks in it have been welded up (nice job, too) ... what are the odds
> of it cracking again soon if I use it? At the rate it's going, this isn't a
> job I'll be anxious to do again anytime soon. (P.S.: I bought it for my
> racecar, figuring that if it ever did crack -- okay, when it cracks -- it
> wouldn't be that big of a job to replace. This is clearly *not* the case on
> a street car!)
>
> Would I be better off using a Dialynx manifold (does it really deliver a
> performance improvement as claimed?) or making a two-piece manifold fit?
> I'd like to keep the costs in check, if at all possible, which means I'd
> really prefer to use Ben's old manifold but I'm willing to spend the money
> for a new one, if necessary...
>
> Any input will be appreciated.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> _ _
> / | _| o | \ _| o Jeffrey Goggin
> /__| | | / | | __ | | | | / | | audidudi@mindspring.com
> / | |_| \_| | |_/ |_| \_| | http://people.delphi.com/audidudi
> ______________________________________________________________________
Dialynx manifold comes with a flex joint that they recomend to install
behind down pipe or in our case cat. This flex joint works like bellows
on VW golf. It isolates the manifold from movement of the rest of the
exhaust system. They recomend using both their manifold and flexjoint
to eliminate any further manifold problems. When I stopped by there to
see the production of home made short quattros I purchased the flex joint
to use in my car.
I just went through what you are about to do. I did it all because of
blown Turbo. I also stripped an intake manifold bolt but
in addition to that I drilled an opening for an Easyout and went into
aluminum of the manifold itself. Than without knowing it I placed the
Easyout in and broke it. I removed the head with Turbo and downpipe
together. It was easy to disassemble it on the work bench. BTW this is
how we do it during rally repairs exept rally cars are stripped of
accesories and that allows quick removal and refitting. I didn't do any
modifications to my cylinder head. I had it cleaned in hot tank with
alkali solution. I had seats resurfaced and new guides fitted and all
broken studs removed. Valve springs were tested and shimmed and valve
heights were set. My intake manifold was repared to perfection with
heliarc welding by JY Racing in New Milford, CT. I installed rebuilt
watercooled K26 with custom hose for oil supply so I could keep the
original 2 filter oil thermostat. I have no interest in tuning this car
for reason that overall it is still very old technology and there is many
cars out there that are more fun and faster. My conversion to watercooled
turbo was for durability reasons. The historical value of my coupe is
why I still have it. It is also why I am replacing H&R springs with
original ones and yellow Koni struts with Billstein or Boga. I have also
removed all the urethane bushings and aluminum subframe mounts and
replaced with rubber. I am, however envolved in rallying and have another
purpuse built car. If this coupe was my only outlet for automotive
expression I would probably modify it more.
Also I had fresh water pump and timing belt fitted less than a year prior
so I just slipped off the belt and didn't move the pump at all. I placed
Raceware studs. I think because of that I will never be able to remove
this head together with downpipe again. The downpipe will not clear the
firewall with these studs in place. Deffinaly get a right tap and clean
the cylinder head bolt holes. I purchased my tap from Raceware together
with studs. Head gasket kit is a great convenience and is very complete.
Turbo studs and nuts are very expencive. Recently I saw a lockal Audi
garage to remove broken studs placed in with Thred locking compound.
It was not amusing. I know you will not do that.
Good luck. Don't spend money on modifications. You will need it to spend
on your girlfriend to make her forgive you for spending all your free
time on this car and not with her. This job took so much of my time.
Mike Zamikhovsky
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End of quattro-digest V4 #1487
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