Re: about switching to synthetic

[Sachelle Babbar <sbabbar@iris.nyit.edu>]

Youcould always  do whatI did   and     just  changeover to  synthetic
atonce and forget about  it.   No complaints here.



****************************************************************************
*Steve                                       Sachelle Babbar
*'84  5ksT 1.6-2.0 bar                    <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
*Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
*
*Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
*personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
*your results may vary from mine."
********************************************************************************

On Tue, 14 Apr 1998, Michael Stocker wrote:

> The Engine Oil Bible site recommends that the engine be "flushed" using 0W20
> flushing oil to remove these deposits before changing over to synthetic.
> 
> Basically, you change the oil using this light weight synthetic oil and run the
> engine for 20 minutes at idle to loosen and remove these deposits.  Do not
> drive the car during this process!  Then, replace the oil and filter as you
> normally would and you are all set to go.  Maybe the new 0W30 Mobile 1 will
> work as a flushing oil?
> 
> What I do is follow these steps to change over to synthetic oil:
>     1. Change the oil and filter using normal weight synthetic, and drive the
> car for a week
>     2. Change the oil and filter and drive the car for 1,000 miles
>     3. Change the oil and filter and drive the car for 2,000 miles
>     4. Change the oil and filter and resume normal oil change intervals, 3,000
> mi/3 mo
> 
> Michael D. Stocker
> mdstockr@neo.lrun.com
> http://home.neo.lrun.com/pim/home.htm
> 
> ----------
> | Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 07:41:22 -0700
> | From: "Ken Keith" <keith@specialdevices.com>
> | Subject: re: about switching to synthetic<>oil pan upgrade question
> | 
> | > Other than price, I've only experienced on problem with running synthetic
> in
> | > an older engine. Over the winter I ran Mobil-1 10w-30 in my 87 5kq with
> | > about 115k on the motor when winter started. I estimate I've put about 6k
> on
> | > the car since(odometer quit) and over the weekend changed the oil. When
> | > adding the new oil, conventional 10w-40, I noticed a change in the carbon
> | > deposits on the cam in the spaces between the lobes and bearings.  The
> | > deposits have loosened up and seem to be falling off and into the oil
> | > supply. This has me a little worried. I'm thinking I will never use synth
> | > again or use it all the time to get all the stuff out of the motor. Right
> | > now I fear I am just creating new deposits to float around the engine the
> | > next time synth lossens them up.  I see lots of filter changes in my
> future.
> | > Just another warning I guess.
> | 
> | Yes, I think most people agree that synthetic oil is very detergent, and 
> | will "clean" out your motor of deposits, which can be a good an a bad 
> | thing.
> | 
> | I wonder if it might be better to slowly introduce synthetic to an older 
> | car a little bit at a time, maybe a half a quart to the rest conventional. 
> | That way, the cleaning factor wont be everything all at once, but the 
> | deposits might have a chance to be removed slowly.
> | 
> 
>