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Re: quattro-digest V4 #2097
Re: driving lamp mounting on front bumper of 5000TQ
I've had a variety of sizes and shapes of driving lamps mounted on top of
the front bumper of my 86 5000TQ. I've found 5" round lamps, Hella 500 for
ex., to look best when mounted next to stock headlamps, a la Aston Martin.
It's important to cut a steel spacer to insert your mounting bolt through
so you don't deform the plastic bumper cover when you torque down on the
bolt. Also, as a bonus the round plastic bumper plugs will nicely seal the
mounting hole should you decide to take your lamps off later on.
----------
> From: quattro-digest <owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net>
> To: quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
> Subject: quattro-digest V4 #2097
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 4:00 PM
>
>
> quattro-digest Monday, April 20 1998 Volume 04 : Number
2097
>
>
>
> *
> * Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
> * See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
> * In this issue:
> S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> ME, BMW and Quattro
> RE: Radar question
> RE: Cracked EM
> 87 5KQ Flush Radiator
> <All> Head bolt torque tips
> Dave Eaton's RS2 wagon
> Re: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
> Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> Re: M-B Theme Park?
> FS 88 5KsQ / parts
> RE: Newcombs Ranch Drive
> RE: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
> Abt parts source
> Re: <All> Head bolt torque tips
> Re: ABS
> Re: <All> Head bolt torque tips
> S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> <All> Head bolt torque tips
> Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> Re: license bracket installation
> S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> Cracked EM (welcome to the club!)
> Metal 5K Rad. 4 Sale
> RE: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
> 20V.net update
> Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
> Retorquing head bolts
> RE: Torsen bites Performance Car
> Re: Abt parts source
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 19:53:08 GMT
> From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
> Subject: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> In message <l03020900b15e33e14976@[194.134.63.44]> Tom Nas writes:
>
> > And drivers of these cars can pride themselves in being able to
out-brake
> > Michael Schumacher in his Ferrari.
>
> Huh?
>
> - --
> Phil Payne
> Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
> (The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:00:14 EDT
> From: QSHIPQ <QSHIPQ@aol.com>
> Subject: ME, BMW and Quattro
>
> Dave writes, some time back:
>
> >...
> >scott bases everything on track performance and delights in explaining
how
> >awesome the m3 is (50:50 weight distrbution and all) on the track (mmm,
> almost
> >got beaten by the vw golf deisel in the nurburgring 24hrs). how
compromised
> >the quattro is (front weight destribution and all). and as soon as
someone
> >points out that quattro (as we know it) has won a bunch of circuit
titles
> (you
> >know the ones), scott says "oh no, thats specialised race machinery"
> >its still quattro, with all its advantages and disadvantages. how did
> quattro
> >help audi win dtm? trans-am? super touring? in each case, the front-
> hanging,
> >longitudional engine and drivetrain was there.
> Ok, Dave. Let's see, here's some reference for your edification:
> * Audi 200 quattro Trans Am = 6spd + 510hp + 330/304mm f/r brakes 12X16
> wheels@ 2453lbs
> * Audi 90 quattro IMSA -GTO = 6spd + 720hp + 330/330mm f/r brakes 14X17
tires
> @ 2653lbs
> * Audi v8 quattro DTM = 6spd + 420hp + 330/335mm f/r brakes 255 x 18
tires@
> 2684lbs
> * Audi v8 quattro DTM = 6spd + 470hp + 373/355mm f/r brakes 265 x 19
tires@
> 2750lbs
> * Audi 80 quattro 16V 2.0L= 6spd + 272hp + 330/350mm f/r brakes 215 x 19
> tires@ 2310lbs
> * Audi 80 competition 2.0L = 6spd + 285hp + 343/350mm f/r brakes 215 x19
> tires @ 2310lbs
> * Audi A4 Supertouring 2.0L = 6spd + 285hp + 343/330mm f/r brakes 215 x
19
> tires @ 2288lbs
>
> So, although your point seems valid, one could argue that the street cars
> maybe lack:
> wheel diameter + width
> brake diameter
> 6spds (your RS2 so noted)
> HP
> HP:weight ratio
> Engine (2.0L)
> weight distribution (I wonder how close the above are to 50/50?)
> HP
> HP
> HP
> HP
>
> I can look at the above and tell you exactly why audi won in racing. And
> exactly what they DIDN'T do in the street cars. We could go further and
> explore the diffs, the specific lack of swaybars, and a few other major
> differences. The formula for the above success doesn't even show your
RS2 to
> be a crackerjack with 4puck 944 club sport brakes. And you have the
highest
> audi production HP/Weight ratio with your RS2 at 310hp and what 3800lbs?
I
> don't need to argue more than with my calculator you might not have the
point
> here you figure. Right now, you could count the number of audis running
any
> of those above HP numbers on one hand (or less). Ned might get close
soon, we
> hope.
>
>
> >perhaps, just perhaps scott (not sure if your ego is up to this), audi
know
> >something that you don't about quattro?
> Sure, tho I look at high hp/weight ratios big brakes and 6spds as things
audi
> knew and didn't share. That's all. Hp/weight advantage goes to quattro,
but
> we don't run those numbers, so the point is lost to the rest of the
buying
> public. Torsen center diff argument aside.
>
> >they've btdt. you haven't. i rest my case.
> I've tried, and will continue. And will be wrenching on an S2 Group A
car
> this season in ProRally to help me learn. I've seen the trans out of the
car,
> and been over it with a fine eye, and even Group A has massive
differences to
> the street cars you name desire.
>
> >in summary, if you can't understand the advantages of awd, you need to
read
> >some more, or brush up your physics...
> High horsepower low weight, advantage quattro. Posted right here in the
> archives over 3 years ago.
>
> >as for the rest of the *street* machines. they are not meant for the
track,
> so
> >to take them to the track is foolish (fun). on the road, much more
> difficult,
> >and harder. been in an m3 which has hit a mid-corner bump, and you'll
know
> >what i mean. driven an m3 hard from point-to-point (over 640kms), and i
> could
> >not keep the pace i could in my ur-q. had the same experience with a
friend
> in
> >his ferrari f355 and my rs2. so posted. on the cicuit. not a chance.
> >do i rate bmw. yes i do, i've taken enough race photos of them over the
> years.
> >do i rate the m3? yes i do. better or worse than the rs2? neither.
show
> me
> >the driver..
> Still interested in apples to apples. How's your RS2 compare to a 540IM?
> Show me the driver too, cuz the "pace" should be moot with the M3 and the
> 20vUrq, IMO. Especially, since europe being different and all, the M3
enjoys
> a 46hp advantage in europe it loses here. A track is the equalizer, a
lap, a
> point of reference, to street and race cars. What I found unsettling is
all
> that front weight bias in the quattro as you overcook a turn going
downhill.
> Still happy to buy you a beer, and show you a goofball driver make a
couple
> cars dance.
>
> No offense taken at the post, tho it seems somewhat agressive, Dave. The
> documentation of the racing argument just doesn't support a "street
> correlation". Look at the above, what's the same to you?
>
> HTH
>
> Scott Justusson
> QSHIPQ@aol.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:10:18 -0400
> From: quattro <quattro@acacianet.com>
> Subject: RE: Radar question
>
> There is also a 'dual beam' radar where one beam points down at
> the road to determine the 'patrol' speed and another beam to determine
> the 'target' speed. The 'target' speed is computed and displayed
directly.
> This system does not rely on the vehicle speedo and is unaffected by
> tahr size, etc. "Gotcha!"
>
> - -glen
>
> Sachelle Babbar wrote:
> >
> > Can a police officer travelling in the opposite direction as me
getme
> > with an accurate speed on his radar? It happened to me this
> > weekend,alongwith an arrest for afailure to appear. They didn't
> > read me my rights, though.
> >
> > Audi content: What generally causes clutch packs on slushboxes
to
> > weld together? I mean, what kind of direct situations, not that
I'm
> > running 2.0 bar.
> >
> >
****************************************************************************
> > *Steve Sachelle Babbar
> > *'84 5ksT 1.6-2.0 bar <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
> > *Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
> >
>
> Steve:
> There exists out there radar connected to the patrol vehicle's
> speedometer. The electronics take this into effect when the radar puts
> the beam on you. So the answer to your question is: "yes, it can be
> done."
> Very Respectfully,
> markbyrum@erols.com
> '86 4kq
> '90 100
> '95 90S
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 12:19:01 -0700
> From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
> Subject: RE: Cracked EM
>
> > > 3) Fortunately, I don't see any broken studs (yet ;-) ). If all
> > studs
> > > are intact, can I leave them in place or should I better renew them?
> > >
> Oops, I must have been in a hurry to get this out!
>
> I heartily recommend replacing all of the studs as well as the nuts that
> hold the EM in place when you do this. The studs and fasteners aren't
> that expensive ...
>
> HTH!
> Steve B
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:24:48 -0500
> From: Bob Mansker <oscargum@datasync.com>
> Subject: 87 5KQ Flush Radiator
>
> That time of year.
> Need to flush cooling system since I blew a top radiator top hose the
other day.
> Had trouble finding the "upper Hose" for my 87 5KQ. Called Discount Auto
> Parts & they had both of them in stock ($11.00 for both) .
> Anyway I need to flush the cooling system.
> Is Prestone OK to use.
> I will use Distilled water to fill.
> What procedure should I use.
> Should I use Prestone Flush? (for a Short time)
> Plan on taking radiator out & back flushing.
> What is the best way to back flush engine & heater??
> Many thanks,
> Bob
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:30:49 CDT
> From: "Al Powell" <apowell@agcom.tamu.edu>
> Subject: <All> Head bolt torque tips
>
> Hey, group, I was just cleaning up some papers last weekend and found
> an engine building booklet printed by Hot Rod magazine. It had a
> couple of tips related to head bolt torquing (an occasional subject
> of discussion here) which seemed worth relaying. Here they are:
>
> 1) When torquing head bolts, always use a washer under the bolt,
> even on cast iron heads. Also, put a drop or two of oil between the
> washer and the bolt head. This lessens friction and ensures a more
> accurate reading from the wrench.
>
> 2) AFter torquing all the head bolts, let them sit for an hour or
> so, then back each bolt off about 1/4 turn, and re-torque. If you
> mark each bolt relative to the head, you will find the bolts turn
> farther the second time it's tightened to the same torque spec. This
> evidently "overcomes the breakaway torque" required to reach
> the final torque setting the first time.
>
> The floor is open for discussion......
>
>
> *******************************************************
> Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
> 107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
> College Station, TX 77843
> Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
> *******************************************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:29:37 -0400
> From: Steve Manning <stephenm@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Dave Eaton's RS2 wagon
>
> Dave Eaton was kind enough to provide pictures of his RS2 wagon for my
> stationwagon.com gallery; you can see them by going to
> http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/gallery.html and picking his wagon
from
> the list on the left. Awesome.
>
> Probably not a big deal for those non-USA countries where you could
> actually buy one, but for me it's the closest I'll get (except possibly
if
> an S4 Avant ever makes it here).............SLM
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:32:16 -0600
> From: Ralph Poplawsky <rlpplsky@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
>
> Glen: I mounted mine ('91 200Q) on top of the front bumper. There is
plenty
> of metal right behind that plastic cover. I just drilled through the
plastic
> and metal starting with very small drills and increasing drill sizes.
Then I
> used the special anchors provided by Hella that don't require access from
> underneath. Just be careful to scout around for places to drill that
don't
> have brackets or anything else in the way underneath. Mine ended up as
close
> as possible to the headlights without interference.
>
> Ralph Poplawsky
>
>
> At 02:05 PM 4/20/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >
> > Anyone mount driving lights on top of the bumper cover on a 5K?
> > The cover is plastic, but these Hella lights are also light plastic,
> > so this might work OK without excessive vibration of the lamps.....
> >
> > Does the bumper cover need to come off the car to get access to
> > install the nuts on the underside of the bumper cover?
> >
> > Anyone BTDT?
> >
> > Thoughts & hints?
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > -glen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:48:41 +0200 (MET DST)
> From: Tom Nas <tnas@euronet.nl>
> Subject: Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk wrote:
> >
> >> And drivers of these cars can pride themselves in being able to
out-brake
> >> Michael Schumacher in his Ferrari.
> >
> >Huh?
> >
> Apparently, both the M3's and the S4's brakes are more efficient than
those
> on Herr Schumacher's Ferrari. However they came to such a conclusion is
> beyond me.
>
> Tom
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:03:29 -0700
> From: Arun Rao <rao@pixar.com>
> Subject: Re: M-B Theme Park?
>
> Robert Myers wrote:
> > For starters:
> >
> > Under powered engines, even with a turbo.
> [....]
> *
> > * My 4 Siberian Huskies don't get to enjoy riding in my '95 S6
> ^^^^^^
>
> Look who's talking, Bob! :-)
>
> -Arun
>
> - --
> Arun Rao
> Pixar Animation Studios
> Pt. Richmond, CA 94804
> (510) 620-3526
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:01:33 -0400
> From: Stilian Elenkov <elenkovs@vtls.com>
> Subject: FS 88 5KsQ / parts
>
> The car is 88 5000s Q with 150k miles it is 5sp and has the 2.3 130 hp
> engine.
> There is some damage in the rear right QP and trunk area and the rear
> window is broken.
> The damage probably makes the frame unusable, but the rest of he car is
> excellent condition.
> All the 4 doors are OK. The drive train is in excellent shape. All the
> accessories work.
> The car was maintained very well. I prefer to sell the the whole car,
> but will consider parting it out.
> Make an offer.
>
>
> Stilian Elenkov
>
> elenkovs@vtls.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:11:05 -0700
> From: ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV
> Subject: RE: Newcombs Ranch Drive
>
> I feel like such a dope after working all day saturday getting the
> car ready, I went out for a late dinner. When I got home I foundt
> a message from paul rivera saying we missed you THIS morning. The
> car was ready, the owner, not even close it appears.
>
> Anyone want to report on Rui's (mis)adventures in his rally car in
> Washington this weekend. Report have him clocked at 110 mph out
> in the forrest, but with problems on the stages. More? mark?
> Christian? (who appears to have finnished both divisionals)
> Good job! Details, we want details!
>
> paul timmerman
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:10:09 -0400
> From: "Paul Luevano" <prl@ptc.com>
> Subject: RE: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
>
> Glen-
>
> I'm running the Hella XL's on top of the bumper (same case as the Hella
> 550's, I believe).
>
> Install is easy, take about 30 minutes. Removing the bumper is not
> needed, but it makes the job much easier, and only takes 5 minutes.
>
> HTH,
>
> - --
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Paul Luevano | AMA #418487 | '97 CBR 1100XX (Streetbike)
> Team Daemon Racing | CCS #898 | '94 CBR 600F2 (Racebike)
> Waltham, MA USA | NMA #116657 | '87 5KCSTQ (Winter)
> ________"Man's purpose is to live, not to exist."-Jack London_________
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:17:27 -0500 (CDT)
> From: "Jevon B. Dade" <jdade@usibr01.usi.edu>
> Subject: Abt parts source
>
> I was calling a few places in EC looking fora hose kit for my 88 90 4cyl,
> and just happened to ask one place (can't rember who) about some possible
> performance enhancing parts,and they said that ABT makes a cam that wil
> add about 12-15 hp. but the cost was$500. does anyone know of a cheaper
> source fora poor college student?
>
> TIA
>
> jevon
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:22:08 -0400
> From: Mark Byrum <markbyrum@erols.com>
> Subject: Re: <All> Head bolt torque tips
>
> Al Powell wrote:
> >
> > Hot Rod :
> >
> > 1) When torquing head bolts, always use a washer under the bolt,
> > even on cast iron heads. Also, put a drop or two of oil between the
> > washer and the bolt head. This lessens friction and ensures a more
> > accurate reading from the wrench.
> >
> > 2) AFter torquing all the head bolts, let them sit for an hour or
> > so, then back each bolt off about 1/4 turn, and re-torque. If you
> > mark each bolt relative to the head, you will find the bolts turn
> > farther the second time it's tightened to the same torque spec. This
> > evidently "overcomes the breakaway torque" required to reach
> > the final torque setting the first time.
> >
> > Quattro:
> I read somewhere that adding lubricant to the threads of a bolt being
> torqued interferes with it reaching the appropriate torque. Unsure why
> that was, unless the torque numbers are designed around a "clean but
> dry" bolt and lubricating the threads lulls one into thinking the
> appropriate level has been reached until the threads strip. It's a
> thought.
> markbyrum@erols.com
> '864kcsq
> '90 100
> '95 90S
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:30:59 -0400
> From: harrison <hsapir@multiverse.com>
> Subject: Re: ABS
>
> Well, the parts are out there, it's been around since 86. However, this
> involves new brake lines, a port for electricity going to the pump &
brain,
> 4 new axles & struts, and some actually new parts. I do not think easy
and
> cheap apply.
>
> harrison
>
> Lewis, Gary M wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > Anybody retro-fit ABS to a non-ABS car? My car doesn't have ABS. I
was
> > wondering if I found a compatible type 44 w/ABS, could I do the retro?
> > I'm not really interested in doing after-market, but if a retro could
be
> > done (read: fairly cheaply and easily), I'd like to explore the
> > possibility.
> >
> > TIA!
> >
> >
************************************************************************
> > ****************************
> > Gary M. Lewis
> > 1986 5000 CS Turbo 5 Speed 194,000 miles (and counting...)
> >
************************************************************************
> > ****************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:26:30 CDT
> From: "Al Powell" <apowell@agcom.tamu.edu>
> Subject: Re: <All> Head bolt torque tips
>
> Mark said:
>
> > I read somewhere that adding lubricant to the threads of a bolt
> > being torqued interferes with it reaching the appropriate torque.
Unsure
> > why that was, unless the torque numbers are designed around a "clean
> > but dry" bolt and lubricating the threads lulls one into thinking
> > the appropriate level has been reached until the threads strip.
>
> I have also heard that. But the recommendation was to put oil betwen
> the *head of the bolt* and the washer, so the threads would not be
> involved.
>
> Thought this worth pointing out if it wasn't clear in the original
> post.
>
>
> *******************************************************
> Al Powell Voice: 409/845-2807
> 107 Reed McDonald Bldg. Fax: 409/862-1202
> College Station, TX 77843
> Http://agcomwww.tamu.edu/agcom/satellit/alpage.htm
> *******************************************************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:21:56 GMT
> From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
> Subject: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> In message <l0302090ab161646278d9@[194.134.63.100]> Tom Nas writes:
>
> > quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk wrote:
>
> >>> And drivers of these cars can pride themselves in being able to
out-brake
> >>> Michael Schumacher in his Ferrari.
>
> >> Huh?
>
> > Apparently, both the M3's and the S4's brakes are more efficient than
those
> > on Herr Schumacher's Ferrari. However they came to such a conclusion is
> > beyond me.
>
> Herr Schumacher is driving a glorified Go-Kart with almost no weight.
>
> Both the M3 and the S4 have three extra seats, and very possibly
> air conditioning. There's more weight - therefore you need better
> brakes, and it wouldn't surprise me to find braking force greater
> on them. Greater overall power, perhaps greater efficiency - but
> no way could an M3 or S4 "outbrake" and F1 car without a large
> concrete block and a chain.
>
> - --
> Phil Payne
> Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
> (The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 21:18:48 GMT
> From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
> Subject: <All> Head bolt torque tips
>
> In message <A06497019B@agcom.tamu.edu> "Al Powell" writes:
>
> > 2) AFter torquing all the head bolts, let them sit for an hour or
> > so, then back each bolt off about 1/4 turn, and re-torque. If you
> > mark each bolt relative to the head, you will find the bolts turn
> > farther the second time it's tightened to the same torque spec. This
> > evidently "overcomes the breakaway torque" required to reach
> > the final torque setting the first time.
> >
> > The floor is open for discussion......
>
> DON'T DO THIS TO AN AUDI.
>
> The head bolts are taken beyond the elastic limit in torquing. If you
> want to see what this means, measure the bolts before and after use.
>
> Audi head bolts are _not_ torqued in the classic sense. They're
> inserted, torqued (usually twice at 40Nm and 60Nm) and then turned
> 180 degrees - the final stage has no defined torque value.
>
> - --
> Phil Payne
> Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
> (The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:42:04 EDT
> From: Sonar465 <Sonar465@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> I think that maybe a concrete wall might work better than a block and
chain.
>
> Cheers,
> Jim
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 13:55:36 -0700
> From: "Ken Keith" <ken.keith@specialdevices.com>
> Subject: Re: license bracket installation
>
> Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net> wrote:
> >
> > I don't think there is a threaded collar inside the bumper,
> > but yes, those are pilot holes. Check the Bentley - the one
> > for the CQ talks about this operation, not that I'm ready
> > to do it yet...
>
> I'm saddened by this talk of drilling into bumpers.
>
> Isn't there an alternative? Can't it be glued on or something?
>
> Silcone?
>
> Ken
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:00:18 -0800
> From: frankbauer@thevine.net
> Subject: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> >>>> And drivers of these cars can pride themselves in being able to
out-brak
> >>>> Michael Schumacher in his Ferrari.
> >>> Huh?
> >> Apparently, both the M3's and the S4's brakes are more efficient than
thos
> >> on Herr Schumacher's Ferrari.
> >Herr Schumacher is driving a glorified Go-Kart with almost no weight.
>
> maybe they were writing about his personal ferrari road car...
>
> frank
>
> to: IN:quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk
> cc: IN:quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:37:13 -0400
> From: four.rings@MCIONE.com
> Subject: Cracked EM (welcome to the club!)
>
> Alex wrote:
>
> 2) I, therefore, consider finding a used two-piece manifold (I cannot
> afford a new one. I cannot, period). I understand that the two-piece
> unit doesn't warp and therefore buying a used one is fairly safe. Good
> idea/bad idea? Which Audi models was the two-piece unit fitted to?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> The idea is good, but since they were fitted as a replacement part ONLY,
> good luck in finding one used. I failed.
>
> Would a manifold from a 200T20V/S2/S4 fit my 5K?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> No. A completely different head design. Also the WG sits in the centre
> of the EM on a 20v car.
>
> Could someone please pass the p/n for the correct manifold to me?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> I included the nos down below.
>
> 3) Fortunately, I don't see any broken studs (yet ;-) ). If all studs
> are intact, can I leave them in place or should I better renew them?
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> I definitely would. If you do it now, you_might_avoid breaking them and
> having to drill them out. Not fun! See my recent posts.
>
> 4) What do I risk if I drive the car in this condition? I can't hear any
> exhaust noise from the manifold.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> You will soon. First the #1 and/or #5 ports will break the studs. If
> unattended,
> the EM will warp further and the #2 and/or #4 ports will follow suit. By
> that time the car will be _roaring_ at any temperature, not just in the
> morning. The exhaust gasses bypassing the turbo will also rub the engine
> of it's power.
>
> 1. Exhaust manifold
> 1.01 Manifold 034 129 591AC (1pc.)
> 1.02 Manifold 034 129 592 (1pc.)
> 1.03 Clamp 034 129 933 (2pc.)
> 1.04 Pipe 034 129 995 (2pc.)
> 1.05 Pipe 034 129 903 (1pc.)
> 1.06 Bracket (WG to block) 035 145 880 (1pc.)
>
> The following two parts are for plugging the Exh T°-re gauge port in the
> 2-piece EM (yes, unlike the 1-piece unit, the 2-piece has one!)
> 1.07 Washer N 013 812 B (1pc.)
> 1.08 Plug N 016 153 1 (1pc.)
>
> These 4 studs are ~$25/ea. Don't replace if not needed:
> 1.09 Stud (EM to Turbo) N 900 717 01 (4pc.)
>
>
> 1.10 Washer (EM to Head) N 900 955 01 (10pc.)
> 1.11 Nut (EM to Head) N 902 002 01 (10pc.)
> 1.11 Stud (EM to Head) N 044 411 5 (10pc.)
> 1.12 Stud (WG to EM) N 101 693 01 (4pc.)
>
> You'll also need gaskets: turbo to downpipe (1), turbo to EM (1), EM to
> head (10pc.). I can dig up the nos if you need them.
>
> - --
> Igor Kessel
> '89 200TQ -- 18psi (TAP)
> '98 A4TQ -- nothing to declare
> Philadelphia, PA
> USA
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 14:07:28 -0700
> From: ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV
> Subject: Metal 5K Rad. 4 Sale
>
> I was out shopping at "The World's largest Self Service Auto
> Dismattler" in Sunland, CA when I stubled on a very new looking
> all metal radiator in a new style (44) 5K. This radiator was made
> in Denmark, and is very new looking. Anyone need to replace a
> plastic number give me a shout. I would like to get over $100
> for it. Highest bid takes it.
>
> Paul Timmerman
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:24:59 -0400
> From: Jim Griffin <JGriff@pobox.com>
> Subject: RE: driving light mounting on 5KTQ?
>
> At 04:10 PM 4/20/98 -0400, Paul Luevano wrote:
> >Glen-
> >
> > I'm running the Hella XL's on top of the bumper (same case as the Hella
> >550's, I believe).
>
> Ditto. I too have the Hella XL's on the top of the bumper (see pix of my
> car via my sig below). I recommend NOT using their molly-mounting system.
> They did not hold tight enough.... and... well, let me just say "it
didn't
> work". I ended up using toggle bolts (available at Home Depot). They
worked
> perfectly.
>
> With the XL's (and most aftermarket lights I assume), I had to drill some
> large holes through the bumper/bumper cover though. But it was that... or
> keep driving blindly down the road with the OEM lights (if you can call
> them that!!).
>
> Good luck.
>
>
>
> - --------------------------
> Jim Griffin
> JGriff@pobox.com
> - --------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:37:43 -0400
> From: Ramana Lagemann <elmool@tiac.net>
> Subject: 20V.net update
>
> and a pretty meager update at that...
> Anyhoo, come on by... I have some pictures of my CQ w/ new RS2 Bumper
> cover, as well as some picts of a 90Q Gp. A Rally car that I took in
> Hungary... enjoy!
>
> http://www.20v.net
>
> - --
> **********************
> * Ramana Lagemann
> * Cohasset, MA
> * 1990 CoupeQ20V
> * mailto:elmool@20v.net
> **********************
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 15:43:46 -0600 (MDT)
> From: Harry R Glesner III <hglesner@ast.lmco.com>
> Subject: Re: S4 vs. M3, rallye racing magazin 11/97 (long)
>
> Phil:
>
> >Herr Schumacher is driving a glorified Go-Kart with almost no weight.
>
> Last time I looked neither the S4 or the M3 generate up to 5000 pounds
of aero
> induced down force... down force = increase in c/f = greater braking
force. Not
> to mention big sticky tires and carbon on carbon braking surfaces. If a
current
> f1 car is just a glorified go-kart god praise that glorification!
>
>
>
> Rick Glesner
> Littleton, Colorado
> (a Damon Hill fan that hopes Jordon gets its stuff together)
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 17:55:46 EDT
> From: QSHIPQ <QSHIPQ@aol.com>
> Subject: Retorquing head bolts
>
> Phil writes in regards to:
> > 2) AFter torquing all the head bolts, let them sit for an hour or
> > so, then back each bolt off about 1/4 turn, and re-torque. If you
> > mark each bolt relative to the head, you will find the bolts turn
> > farther the second time it's tightened to the same torque spec. This
> > evidently "overcomes the breakaway torque" required to reach
> > the final torque setting the first time.
> >
> > The floor is open for discussion......
>
> >>DON'T DO THIS TO AN AUDI.
>
> Ditto this comment. DO NOT RETORQUE AUDI HEAD BOLTS. The manuals
address
> this specifically as a no-no. If you are, you might as well reuse the
old
> bolts, cuz you just stretched the new ones, now they are no "better" than
the
> old ones. You can save 40bux in the short term I suppose.
>
> Follow the Bentley manual, do it right the first time. The second time
> redoing the first hardly makes the above a good "secret to speed". Also,
> don't forget to get the oil out of the bottom of each of the head bolt
holes
> in the block. I've redone some heads cuz someone forgot to do this,
creating
> hydrolock of the bolt. Compressed air or soaking it up works fine.
>
> HTH
>
> Scott Justusson
> QSHIPQ@aol.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 16:58:52 -0500
> From: "Matt & Jenai" <matjen@xsite.net>
> Subject: RE: Torsen bites Performance Car
>
> Gary moans:
> "OH GOD, Oh God, Oh god, oh god, ohhhhhh..."
>
> Would you like a cigarette? ;-)
>
> Matt Pfeffer - 89 200TQW
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 18:08:10 -0400
> From: harrison <hsapir@multiverse.com>
> Subject: Re: Abt parts source
>
> I have not seen one this cheap! I would still like to know what the turbo
cam
> does for the 5 cyl N/A engine...anyone jump right in.
>
> harrison
>
> Jevon B. Dade wrote:
>
> > I was calling a few places in EC looking fora hose kit for my 88 90
4cyl,
> > and just happened to ask one place (can't rember who) about some
possible
> > performance enhancing parts,and they said that ABT makes a cam that wil
> > add about 12-15 hp. but the cost was$500. does anyone know of a cheaper
> > source fora poor college student?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > jevon
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of quattro-digest V4 #2097
> ******************************
>
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