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RE: Drivers Window
> I cleaned the NEW switches. In the process, I pulled the wiring out a
> little (2 inches), and all the windows stopped. Put it back in, they
> work (except drivers). My mechanic said it was probably the wires in
> the door were worn from opening and closing.
>
> What is wrong and how do I fix it?
>
When you figure that the heavy gauge power supply and control wires for the
windows have to pass through the driver's door hinge, which is probably the
door that is most often used ... you've got to expect the wiring to have
problems over time ...
Open the driver's door and pull back the accordian boot that "protects" the
wires. Be prepared for an awful sight. I bought an '87 5kCSQ where more
than half the wires were damaged to one degree or another and a couple of
them were broken. If you only see a small number of wires broken, you might
simply want to cut those wires out in the section that flexes and splice in
some new wire. If a bunch of the wires are broken you might want to see
about getting a replacement harness ... mind you that the loom that contains
the driver's door wiring is the same one that connects to the F/TCU which
some recyclers aren't willing to do. I managed to get a good harness cut
about a half foot into the kick panel area, which allows the splicing to be
done in an area where it will not move.
No matter what you do to fix it, make sure that you use some of that spiral
shaped polyethylene wrap to spread out the bending better for the future. I
got some at Radio Shaft ... BTW, I used the same solution for the wiring to
the trunk lid on the 4kq; which, believe it or not, is even a worse
implementation than the door wiring! In that instance I like the coiled
cord that they used to supply the trunk lights on the urQ ...
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)