Re: 1989 100, Interior dome light

[MSV96@aol.com]

In a message dated 98-07-16 08:34:54 EDT, tyoung@wamnet.com writes:

<< I worked at a computer printer repair business for a brief period,
 and resoldering PC boards was a common repair for a LOT of
 problems. Sure surprised the hell out of me that such a simple
 process could fix some seriously baffling problems. So if all
 else fails, or for that matter, first on your list should be
 resoldering all the connections.
 
 NOTE: Add a tiny amount of fresh solder at each junction. >>

Todd is correct...though normally a trained eye can see the bad connections so
resoldering everything is not usualy required. This is especially common in
areas of large temperature swings and/or vibration (hello automotive
environment!). I have repaired a Perma-Tune ignition unit from my old 911,
several Bosch "relays" which contained PCB's, and the illustrious WOT switch
all by resoldering (and switch contact cleaning). Add to that thousands of
pieces of customer owned audio video components with cracked solder
connections.

In addition to flowing in new solder, if there is heat damage (usualy obvious
crystalization) it is best to first remove all the old solder with solder-wick
or a desoldering tool. Use a good quality soldering station/iron (there are
some good butane ones now by Weller as well) with a clean tip. Use *only*
rosin core solder! I also use liquid solder flux for connections that have
severe heat or corrosion damage (normaly that stuff is reserved for re-flowing
surface mount components).

For those new to electronic soldering, obtain some junked printed circuit
boards to practice with and refine your technique. Don't use too much solder.

One can save large amounts of $ by these kinds of easy fixes...HTH

Mike Veglia
87 5kcstq