Mirror Replacement (Heated) How-To V8 and others

[Roland Broberg <broberg@execpc.com>]

Ok, I finally got around to dealing with the side mirror peeling and
discoloration on the V8.  Here's the how-to.  Probably applies to any
Audi with heated mirrors.

Remove the mirror with its backing-The mirror and backing plastic will
pop out of the housing-may require a screwdriver up the slot at the
bottom of the housing-but it is held in by 4 plastic snap ins in about a
3 inch circle mid mirror.  Try tipping the mirror in on the top so your
view would be high.

D/C the two connections on the back.

Construction at this point is multilayered, as follows, starting with
the plastic backing or mount.
1)   Plastic mount with 2 connectors
2)   Layer of black double stick foam
3)   Layer of copper conductor foil #1  this stuff is like alum foil,
but much heavier
4)   Layer of double stick non-foam adhesive like rubber cement
4a) Two metal coin like heat generators as the connection points between
the copper layers
5)   Layer of copper conductor foil #2
6)   Layer of double stick adhesive
7)   Mirror glass-Audi used silver backed glass like house mirror (on
mine)

Using 1 inch putty knife (thin & pliable), not screwdriver, begin
dissection at the peeled backing between the mirror and #6.  Don't worry
if you break the glass, though it is easier if you don't.  Make sure you
don't get between or behind 2,3,4,5.  6 is ok, but you're in danger of
damaging the heating system.  If things are slow going, try warming the
whole unit in the sun to soften the adhesive.

Reposition any bent edges on the copper & clean up the perimeter of the
plastic backing to make ready for new adhesive.

I secured new mirrors-oem style, but american like with silvering made
in the glass-including the "caution objects in mirror are closer than
they appear" for the right side.  $20 each from Klein Dickert Glass in
Brookfield, Wisconsin.  Call me or email me if you need info.

Test your heating element with a VOM.  If not good, solder the top layer
of copper to the two coins (4a) through the holes provided & test
again.  Make sure the solder joint is flat.

I used an automotive type, low viscosity, rubberized (volatile) contact
cement on both sides (Not all over, you want to get this apart again
some day!) on the perimeter and a dab near each of the coins, both
surfaces.  Allow to set a bit & put em together.  Use light pressure
with mirror down on corrugated cardboard pad.  Duct tape will do nicely
holding the edges together, but you want some contact at the coins if
the heater is ever to work again.  Don't use silicone sealant.  It is
too thick and will gap the glass away from the heating element.

Allow to set as required.

Reconnect and pop it back in.  Viola!  Your mirror looks good again.  I
did both of mine. Last evening along with several red leds replaced in
window switches.  Use Radio Shack T1 red leds.  Perfect!

Roland

--
Roland Broberg
W319N657 Shagbark Glen
Delafield, WI 53018-2818
broberg@execpc.com
broberg@cpg.mcw.edu
Current: 90V8Q, 86 4Ks, Fmr:91 100, 86 5KTQ, 84 5K