86 CGT Power Mirrors.

[lebakken@cdicadwa.com]

Date sent:      	Tue, 29 Dec 1998 20:07:13 -0500 (EST)
From:           	owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net (quattro-digest)
To:             	quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject:        	quattro-digest V4 #3275
Send reply to:  	quattro@coimbra.ans.net


> From: "Englert, Rick" <RickE@triadperform.com>
> Subject: '86 CGT power mirrors
> 
> Hello everyone,
>   I've checked the archives on this but can't find an answer there.  The
> power mirrors on both sides of the car work, but only L/R, not U/D. 
> Where should I start looking?
> Thanks!
> - -Rick
> 86 Coupe GT 296,000km
> 

Rick, this exact problem occurred with my 86 4KQ. It's diagnosis 
also solved my power door lock failure, and driver power window 
failure. The problem was fatigued wires at the corrugated boot in the 
door. There is a plastic covering (tubing) these wires run through 
that is supposed to increase the bend radius so that the bending is 
more distributed along the wire thereby reducing fatigue. When this 
tubing fails, however, it works conversely by focusing the bending at 
this break. The wires then fatigue and break. The only wire that 
remained connected in my case was power mirror L/R, and it was 
cracked. That is my guess anyway since that is all that worked.

Solution: Resolder wires together. To do this you need to remove the 
door panel (screws at map holder, arm rest, molding at mirror, door 
lock knob). Unplug wires from mirror controller in door armrest. This 
can be a cussin' time, especially when plugging it back together, just 
be patient. Arm rest removes by rotating 90 deg. at top conn. At this 
time the controller is easily lifted out, and can be disassembled for 
cleaning later should the wiring prove to be OK. Map holder should 
be removed before panel to ensure you got all the screws (some are 
buried by carpet). Door panel pops off at press in connectors 
around periphery, pull back carefully. Carefully pull back plastic 
sheeting from bottom to about half way up to expose inside of door, 
and hold up with tape. Detach wire clip supports along door 6-7 
places. Pull back rubber boot between door and body. Now you 
need to provide access under the dash at footwell. Remove 
clutch/brake pedal under cover. Remove left side carpet plate by 
peeling back forward lower corner to expose phillips screw. Aft side 
is held on by door seal - peel back. Peel back the rubber sheet and 
fibrous sound shield until you see where the wires enter the car 
body.You can now pull/feed the wires from the door into the car and 
have sufficient slack and space to repair. I soldered mine together 
and taped liberally. When all wires were soldered, I taped them all 
again to emulate the function of the original outer tube to spread out 
the bending of the wires. Cover carpet to avoid burns to it.

Note: Before going through the hassle of tearing everything apart to 
resolder the wires, I checked the wires at the boot between the door 
and the body to verify that they had indeed cracked. I had to cut the 
outer tube slightly to see this. If the cracks are not apparent, you 
could check power at the mirror controller plug when armrest is 
removed, and ignition is on. Also, at this time, I fixed the inevitable 
cracks in the map holder by taping them on the inside with a heavy 
black duct tape (dime diameter), and then using black anodized 
upholstery screws, phillips, with large diameter, _flat_ heads. The 
countersunk screws used by Audi form a splitting wedge that breaks 
the plastic.

HTH

Craig
86 4KQ 235K mi

PS - for your seat, the hog ring pliers and hog rings are available 
from Eastwood (1-800-345-1178,or www.eastwoodco.com), #52032 
$20.99 (pliers), and #52033 $1.99 (rings). Worked well when I 
disassembled my front seats to rebuild broken bolsters. Just the 
product I needed for this job..... Happy customer only......