[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Avoid bleeding clutch on 5K!
Just changed out the clutch master cylinder in my 85 5Ks. Old one (18
months!) was leaky and dribbled brake fluid onto the mats and my left shoe
("shiny shoe syndrome").
Anyway, careful examination of the master cylinder revealed that in the
extended (at rest) position, you can blow right through it . . .
Removing old cylinder, I was careful not to excessively disturb the line
that goes to the slave - note that it is a steel line, and points UP into
the bottom of the clutch master cylinder.
Note also that the clevis pin is MUCH easier to remove and replace if it is
the only thing left holding the old master to the car and the first thing
installed on replacement. Just depress the clutch pedal (careful of the
over-center spring), and the clevis becomes nicely accessable.
Anyway, not disturbing the line to the slave cylinder means that the brake
fluid remains filling it up all the way back from the slave cylinder to the
union where it goes into the master cylinder. Carefully assembling the
clutch master cylinder leaves the fluid level undisturbed.
NOW - SLOWLY fill the reservoir - watch for a slow stream of bubbles as the
clutch master cylinder fills . . . ! Jiggle the pedal maybe half an inch
MAXIMUM to help things along - take your time - and voila! Clutch pedal
comes up, correct height, firm, car shifts properly, self bleeding clutch,
all set to drive away!!!!!!
Took one hour from open hood to wash hands, probably a third of that was
mopping up brake fluid in the bilges.
Final report tomorrow - but I *LIKE* this!
Best Regards,
Mike Arman