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Fw: Automatic Up/Down Window Module
-----Original Message-----
From: Music Research Corp. <mureco@telenet.net>
To: de@aztek-eng.com <de@aztek-eng.com>
Date: Sunday, February 14, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Automatic Up/Down Window Module
>
>Hello DeWitt!
>
> I've had excellent results in repairing my broken regulators by
>remanufacturing (them) using Spectra Polyehylene Fiber purchased from
Small
>Parts Inc., Miami Lakes FL.. Specta Cable has high specific strength with
>long flex fatigue life along with very low stretch and low moisture
>absorption plus excellent abrasion resistance. I use 0.060"size which has a
>breaking strength of 750 lbs..
> Evaluation of the broken unit is needed with hope that the Nylon reel
is
>not too severely damaged. The original wire contributes to the basic
design
>fault for when it derails or breaks, it becomes tangled on that "soft"
Nylon
>reel. It's entirely possible to fix the grooves of the reel by gently
>straightening them with with something like a small burnisher or any other
>smooth rounded tool. I've had success using a Dremel small rounded burr
for
>the finish of this adjusting. Care must be exercised not to cut the groove
>too deep or to leave a sharp edge between the valleys that could cut or
fray
>the Spectra braided cable.
> The next chore is the removal of the pulley that is at the top end of
>the U shaped track that the "puck" rides in. On the back side of the unit
>is the securing somewhat rounded rivet. A Center Cutting End Mill should
be
>used to cut out the rounded bead so a punch can then drive the bearing unit
>out. You will need to modify this bearing unit so it can be used again.
To
>do this "center drill" the unit using a 10-32 drill and then tap it out
>using a 10-32 tap. This allows the use of a 3/8" #10-32 machine screw.
When
>putting this back together (final assembly), a thin, large, fender washer
>will be used to make it tight and secure.
> You should be able to slide the "puck" off the U shaped track now so
the
>"puck" can be reshaped. I use a milling machine for what has to follow
>although a drilling press could work as well. The opposite side from the
>window adjusting screw on the puck needs to be machined off as follows. As
>you look at the unit, turn it towards you so you are looking at the back
>side. You should remove the nylon sliders on the puck now, for the milling
>that you will be doing will produce metal fillings than could be difficult
>to remove at the final cleaning.
> Holding the puck the same way, you will notice that there is a round
>hole in the casting and just an eighth of an inch above this is a flat
>shelf. Mill off everything above this shelf being careful not to damage
the
>round window attachment (almost the size of a quarter) on the opposite
side,
>for we need this almost round part as
>intact as possible. If your milling work went well, you should have
created
>a flat surface 1/2" by 1" or very close to these. Using a half inch
milling
>bit will simplify this for you can see that where you took out the two
Nylon
>sliders, there is now an even wall with the very thin round window
>attachment sticking up but still intact.
> Purchase some type 6063-T5 rectangular aluminum (1/4" x 1/2") and make
a
>small piece shaped with the following dimensions. 1/4" x 1/2" x 1". This
>part will fit nicely on the shelf you just cut and will need four small
>screws at each of the four corners and one large hole directly in the
>center. To do this work I suggest the following procedure.
> First use a #43 drill for each of the four corner screws holes. Allow
>enough room to use a # 4/40 x 3/8" socket cap screw. This is a little
>tricky so be sure to mark your measurements for the screws very carefully.
> Clamp the rectangular aluminum piece to the puck. The Milling Machine
>is sure handy here! Start at any one of the corners. Measured from the
top
>of the aluminum piece, you need first to drill a 3/4" deep hole with the
>#43 drill. Change the drill size to a #32 and drill at the same spot to a
>depth of 1/4" which is the depth of your clamped on aluminum piece. Next,
>at the same spot, you need to use a 3/16" Center Cutting End Mill and cut
to
>a depth of .125" which is the depth of the head of your 4/40 socket cap
>screw. Do the other 3 holes the same way.
> Before removing the clamp from the 4-hole aluminum piece mark it's
>placement. Now lift off the aluminum piece. We will now put threads on
the
>four holes that you just drilled in the puck. Use a #4-40 NC bottom end
>tap and carefully, using proper lube, tap each of the 4 holes. Assemble the
>aluminum piece on the puck using 3/8", #4-40 socket cap screws.
> You may have heard of SWIVEL PINS. Well, we are about to use one of
>these for this project! The Audi part number is 111 129 921. Purchase one
>or two of the pins before starting this project. One swivel pin will be
>used and will need to be modified a little. Only the top half of the pin
is
>threaded and both halves should be so. . .Tap the whole swivel pin using a
>#10-32 Tap. Here's where there is a difference using Spectra cable. The
>shearing strength of Specta is not superior to the braided steel cable. We
>need to take precaution to make sure all sharp edges are eliminated if
>possible and so what we must do here is, plug up the bottom of the hole.
> What I've used is a screw filed so it is flat on the bottom. I've
>dipped it in some liquid metal (certain glue could also be used) and
screwed
>it into the bottom of the newly tapped bottom of the swivel pin. I've let
>it set-up over night and then used a fine jewelers saw to cut it off flush
>with the bottom of the swivel pin. I've then used an appropriate file and
>have shortened the bottom of the swivel pin AND the glued in screw a little
>more than 1/16 of an inch. This is so the flat side of the screw is level
>with the bottom of the diagonal hole. Do this before cutting the top
>center hole.
> Turn the puck about so you are looking at the end of it. What we are
>going to do is to drill a #20 drill hole so it is centered where the cut
>table and the 1/4" aluminum rectangle meet one another. The hole will run
>parallel to the window adjustment screw which be have not touched. Be sure
>to line things up properly and use proper lubrication. The hole is were
the
>Spectra will go through. (Not unlike the braided steel wire that you're
>replacing) You will actually cut the hole between the four screws that
>you've put it. There is just enough room to get between the screws!
> Once you've done this, turn the puck about so you can see the top of
>the rectangular 1" by 1/2" plate. This top view you can see all four
screws
>in place.
> We need to cut a hole centered right in the middle of the plate. "X"
>marks the spot. A 5/16" drill is used to this and a 0.316" drill will
>finish it. This drill also goes by the letter "O" like in M, N, O. The
>depth should be checked so the center hole of the swivel pin lines up with
>the #20 lengthwise hole you previously drilled. The swivel pin height can
>be adjusted by using a file. Make sure you have the end of the 10/32" set
>screw filed flat and screwed in the swivel pin before this filing height
>adjustment otherwise the set pin will give you trouble getting it threaded
>back in. Believe it or not, you're almost done!!!!
> Put the puck back on the U shaped slider rail and replace the pulley
>bearing unit. Be sure to tighten the screw down tightly to the washer.
>Check that the pulley moves easily.
> You need to buy some of that Spectra and the only place I have been
able
>to get it is Small Parts Inc. in Florida. Addresses follow:
> Phone (800) 220-4242
> FAX (800) 423-9009
> E-Mail smlparts@smallparts.com
> Web site www.smallparts.com
>
> Depending upon front or rear windows, you will need between 7 to 8 feet
>of Spectra to do one window. You also will need 2, screw size #2, 1/4"
>nylon spacers. This is used up at the Nylon reel end.
>
> Assembly
>
> 1. Cut the Spectra into two 4 foot lengths.
> 2. Feed the 0.060 Spectra in the 0.091 quarter inch Nylon spacer.
> 3. Burn the end of the Spectra to form a bead. Test this when it
>cools. If you
> can pull it through the spacer, do it again. Make sure all
>strands have melted
> so a good bead is formed.
> 4. Do #3 to the other piece of Spectra.
> 5. Fit both of the Nylon spacers and Spectra in the reel.
> 6. Wind the Spectra from opposite sides of the reel until they meet
>in the middle.
> 7. Put the black bumper in the bottom of the reel (a little axle
>grease will help)
> and while holding onto the
> Spectra, so it doesn't slip, position the reel on the
triangular
>paddle.
> 8. Make sure to run the Spectra out the appropriate guide channels.
> 9. Unravel two feet of a single strand of bicycle derailar wire.
Cut
>it and then do
> one more two foot strand.
> 10. At the dangling, opposite end of the Spectra, measure back six
>inches. Bend a
> quarter inch of the derailar wire and loop it around the
>Spectra. Twist this very
> tight and take care that the wire doesn't stick out. This is
>like a dog leash with
> the wire going first through the tubing with the Spectra
doubled
>back six inches.
> 11. String it up!
> 12. When you put the wire through the puck, don't pull it all the way
>through. Place
> a round metal dowel through the spot where the wire has been
>attached and
> remove the wire.
> 13. Go to the end of Spectra line and get a good grip on it and pull
it
> back so tension holds the dowel in place.
> 14. Put the other length of Spectra line through the puck.
> 15. Do step 12 & 13 on this side. You now should be able to grip the
>ends of
> the Spectra and draw it firmly closed. Pull hard until the
>springs
> are fully closed and while
> you're doing the muscle work have a friend tighten the set pin
>in the
> swivel pin and. . . . . . . YOU'RE DONE
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MSV96@aol.com <MSV96@aol.com>
>To: mureco@telenet.net <mureco@telenet.net>
>Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 1:59 PM
>Subject: Re: Automatic Up/Down Window Module
>
>
>>In a message dated 2/5/99 you wrote:
>>
>><< After repairing my drivers side window regulator, I test the
>re-stringing
>>(I use Spectra Polyehylene Fiber for my windows fixes) >>
>>
>>I am curious what "re-stringing" you are refering to...
>>
>>Do you mean you are replacing the cable with spectra braid? If
>so...Brilliant
>>Idea! Please post how you are doing this!
>>
>>Actually, same goes if what you are talking about is a spectra braid
>>reinforced wire (if such a thing exists) to replace the wires where they
>pass
>>through the hinge.
>>
>>Details please?
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Mike Veglia
>>
>
>
>
>