Re: strut insert replacement question

["Fred Munro" <munrof@isys.ca>]

Hi Phil;

    IME, the front suspension will not drop far enough to release the
spring. That said, when I was working on the front struts (replacing the
rubber shock boots in situ), I jacked up the car with the shock connected,
put a small hydraulic jack under the front strut, and lifted it a bit before
disconnecting the shock. I am always wary working around springs - I heard
first hand about a fellow who got a facefull of spring, and - well, nuff
said, I don't like thinking about it. Be careful!
    I also found it was hard to get the shock out of the upper mount no
matter how the steering was turned. Pushing on the spring will not help
since it is firmly mounted to the top of the strut which is in turn firmly
mounted to the car - besides, pushing on an unsecured spring is a bad idea -
see above.
    I marked the position of the top camber adjusting plate, removed the 3
nuts, and pulled the entire plate off. This made removal and re-installation
of the top shock mount much easier and it was easy to pry the adjusting
plate (with shock bolted to it) into position. It is a good idea to get a
wheel alignment after replacing the shocks.

HTH

Fred Munro
'91 200q  270k km
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>
To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 7:12 PM
Subject: strut insert replacement question


>I'm in the midst of putting in new shocks. The driver's side ('91 200q)
>came out and a new shock went in like a good textbook example. No muss, no
>fuss. But on the other side, the piston is pointed very off-center (towards
>the rear of the strut mount) no matter how I move the steering. I was able
>to slide the upper washer and rubber stop out, but only with a lot of
>pulling on the piston. Wheels are on the floor, but jacking up a little
>doesn't appear to help.
>
>This wasn't a problem on the first side, where it seemed relatively easy to
>get the shock well-centered. Now, I can just manage to slide in the
>(cap-removal) tool and engage the hex, but the tool rubs pretty hard on the
>rear of the strut mount as I try to apply torque  (I say "try" 'cause the
>cap is not loosening yet, and I think that the extra pressure against the
>shock piston can't be helping the effort).
>
>Anyway, I've got some penetrating oil down there while I think about the
>next step. Do I just raise the car and push on the spring  (say with a
>block of wood) to get the strut centered? How high can I raise the car
>without danger of losing the spring?
>
>
>Phil Rose Rochester, NY
>'91 200q mailto:pjrose@servtech.com
>'89 100
>
>