Some Data Points on my sick ur-Q

["Douglas Hurst Quebbeman" <dougq@iglou.com>]

Good Evening!

I have a few data points from messing around with the ur-Q this weekend.

First off, I think I may be dealing with multiple problems, one of which
may be fuel tank contamination. I put in $10 worth of premium, and it
seems to have improved a bit.

Also, it mostly only backfires when accelerating while it's not fully
warmed up. When fully warmed up, it's hard to get it to backfire. But
it does not have the power it should in the lower RPM range.

I tried to run the dwell meter-based ECU diagnostics as shown on Scott's
page, but I'm not getting any change of the meter's default reading. The
meter is working fine, I verified it on the Coupe GT's duty cycle port.

I can't find my remote starter switch, so I can't get it positioned to
what I can be certain is 0degTDC. However, someone has marked the fly-
wheel with an orange mark, the engine usually stops with that mark
lined up in the timing window, and that mark lines up in the window when
I hook up a timing light.

Again, since I can't find my remote starter switch, I can't do a compression
test yet. But I hooked up an outboard vacuum guage, and here are my manifold
vacuum readings:

    Warmed up:
                    idle:    8 to 8.5 in. HG
                3000 RPM:   13.5 in. HG
Full Decel from 3000 rpm:   16 in. HG

These figures look kinda low. I didn't see any wierd needle movements while
accelerating; I used to have a chart that correlated vacuum guage needle
ballistics to various engine problems.

Oh, the 4000 RPM cutout problem is there, for sure.

It has a noisy clacking/banging sound, not very loud, louder when colder,
almost disappears when engine fully warmed up. Hopefully, this is solid
lifter noise...

I seem to remember checking the plugs last fall, all look fine and were
gapped properly. Worth a recheck, though...

Can't think of anything else... I did poke around looking and listening
for vacuum leaks, but no go... I had changed the smog valve with the one
on the Coupe, as the one on the ur-Q had melted a bit due to a too-close
proximity to the lower part of the wastegate... changed them back, no
difference (same part, didn't think there'd be a difference).

So, than the compression test, and other than finding a way to do the
ECU tests, what's next?

Oh, and where the hell do you guys hook up stuff like timing lights
to get +12v when you're under the hood of an '82-83 ur-Q? Can't find
anywhere to hook up, so I used the jumper cables!

Thanks, -doug q
--
-Douglas Hurst Quebbeman (dougq@iglou.com)       [Call me "Doug"]
    QuattroClub USA# 4536     Audi International # 100024
       74 100LS Auto,   77 100LS Auto,   84 Coupe GT 
           83 ur-Q,   86 5Kcstq QLCC 1.8bar  
"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away."  -Tom Waits