Re: Oil change woes

["Dave Puterbaugh" <deputer@email.msn.com>]

Although I have never had the problems you experienced, I would say get a
drain valve.  They work great!  My concern was what if a rock hit it and
opened it up while I was driving.  I put on a small hose clamp above the
valve handle, and there is no way it will ever open without my help.

Dave Puterbaugh
1991 200tq
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Schulz <schulz@ed.ray.com>
To: John Larson <jdlarson@ix.netcom.com>
Cc: <ryanweatherby@juno.com>; <audi-20v@lists.emailsol.com>; 200
<200q20v@pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net>; quattro <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: Oil change woes


> Ryan, John:
>
> I can definitely share my experience having recently had to replace
> the bolt on the 91 TQW- 3B engine with an aluminum oil pan.
>
> I knew that I was in trouble when there was: a. no washer what so
> ever on the bolt, and b. the head of the bolt looked like a block
> of smeared melted butter: i.e. all the flats weren't
>
> I tried heat via propane torch, breaker bar, and even a 1/2 air
> gun.  Nada. I posted to the list and the concensus was to drain the
> oil via the dipstick, drop the pan, and send it to a machine shop.
>
> Other tips included trying to tighten the bolt a bit more to
> "break it free" prior to the loosening attempt.
>
> Before such a drastic move I decided to try one last time.  I bought
> a 16mm 1/2 inch drive Craftsman 6 point socket, and spent about an
> hour with a file, cleaning up the flats on the bolt.  I then
> hammered on the socket,used a two foot breaker bar with a pipe
> extension, and...
>
>
> viola!
>
>
> after removing the bolt, I checked the threads on the pan to ensure that
> they had not been destroyed.
>
> Made a good argument for:
>
>  a. ALWAYS using a crush washer
>  b. ALWAYS using a 6 point 17mm socket for installation and removal.
>  c. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt ( I think that the spec. is
>     22 ft/lbs.-can someone check?)
>  d. Seriously consider the Imparts drain valve.
>
> HTH
>
> -Peter Schulz
> 1990 CQ
> 1991 TQW
> schulz@res.ray.com
>
>
> John Larson wrote:
> >
> > Ryan, a nice pair of CURVED channel lock pliers will work here.
Expensive,
> > but they get tighter as you push/pull harder. Failing that, see a shop,
have
> > them weld a nut to the remaining bolt head, and weld it well. Sometimes
the
> > act of welding it will serve to loosen it. The third alternative is to
> > carefully grind off the head and flange of the bolt, relieving the
tension on
> > the threads, and it should then come right out. The problem with the 3rd
> > alternative is that there is a possibility that the problem is the use
of a
> > crush washer instead of a flat copper/aluminum washer, and that the
> > aforementioned washer was installed with the split side toward the
threads
> > rather than the head of the bolt, thereby locking the threads with the
crush
> > material.
> > IMHO, as a full time wrench, the factory flat washer, whether Alu or
Copper,
> > is the only way to go. rubber and plastic in their many varieties just
don't
> > get it. Hold it guys! Let's not get into the philosophical and
> > pseudoscientific discussion of the relative merits of the 2 metals as
> > manifested in their use as drain plug gaskets!
> > HTH, John
> >
> > ryanweatherby@juno.com wrote:
> >
> > > I have changed the oil on all my cars more times than I can count, but
I
> > > have been trying on my CQ for the first time since I got home from
work
> > > at 5pm (it is now 11:15pm).  The bolt is completely seized and now is
> > > also now completely rounded off, haha. . .I tried a torch + lots of
> > > liquid silicone and many other lubricants.  Has anyone else ever had
this
> > > problem?  Has anyone else tried another kind of washer as opposed to
the
> > > OE drain plug washer?
> > >
> > > TiA
> > > -Ryan
> > > 91 CQ
> > > Chicago, IL
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