RE: Clutch master/slave

["Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>]

Thanks for the great info Daniel!  I am glad to see that there are good
factory trained professionals on this list that are willing to pitch in and
forward a little of their expertise!  The info that you gave me about the
reference sender on my V8 was spot on!

I did have one note based on my experience with the type 44 clutch master
... unfortunately it is from the newer TQs, so it may not apply to the '84
... but if it doesn't, all the better for you Ron!

On the type 44 they went from the master mounted on the firewall to being
mounted on the pedal mounting bracketry.  At this time they also went from
studs mounted in the casting to socket cap bolts with a 6mm heax head.
Unfortunately they did not change the casting at first so the fluid inlet
interferes with access to one of the bolts.  I had to hack the short end
down on a 6mm Allen wrench to be able to extricate the master cylinder.
Fortunately, the replacement M/Cs have a new casting, so a standard wrench
will work on install.  

As I mentioned before, this may or may not be the case on the '84 5kS ...
but I thought I'd mention it so that you will _hopefully_ be forewarned ...

One other thing you might want to consider ... especially if you end up
doing the slave cylinder is to replace the flexible hose that goes from the
firewall to the slave cylinder.  

Good luck!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Jones [mailto:captaudi@ma.ultranet.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 1999 7:29 PM
> To: 'Ron Mruss'; Quattro List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Clutch master/slave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Ron Mruss [SMTP:rmruss@pangea.ca]
> Sent:	Friday, August 06, 1999 10:07 PM
> To:	'Quattro List'
> Subject:	Clutch master/slave
> 
> I'm sure this has already been discussed, but I can't recall 
> exactly what 
> the concensus was, and the search engine is down so hopefully 
> someone can 
> help.
> 
> I've had problems intermittently with the clutch on my '84 
> 5KS failing to 
> return all the way up.  It now seems to have become a 
> permanent condition. 
>  The bushings, spring, etc. seem to be ok, clutch moves 
> freely.  I think 
> it's the master and/or slave, but how do I tell which one it 
> is?  Would the 
> master be leaking if it was toast, because it isn't, haven't 
> checked the 
> slave yet.  Any advice on what this might be and instructions 
> on how to 
> switch both the master and slave would be appreciated, 
> because I think I'm 
> going to attempt this myself.  My mechanic told me the book 
> lists just the 
> master at two hours, and I'd rather try to do it myself.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeff Mruss
> '84 5KS
> 
> 
> If the pedal is not returning then chances are the master is 
> toast,  the 
> actual replacement is no big deal.  The hard part is bleeding 
> the system 
> afterwards.  You either need a pressure bleeder that attaches to the 
> resevoir, or another trick is to use a pump style oil can 
> filled with clean 
> DOT 4 and 2' of good tight fitting hose to fit the bleeder on 
> the slave. 
>  This is the way I bleed clutches at the dealer.  Attach the 
> hose to the 
> oil can and the slave then pump the brake fluid backwards 
> from the slave up 
> through the master.  Works great and is very quick.  The key 
> is to keep 
> bleeding until you get clean fluid from the feed hose to the 
> master.  Then 
> lock down the bleeder and drive away.  And yes 2 hours is 
> about right,  if 
> you have done few then maybe 1 hour, otherwise plan on 2.
> 
> HTH
> Daniel Jones
> Dealer Tech
>