RE: Clutch master/slave

[Daniel Jones <captaudi@ma.ultranet.com>]

-----Original Message-----
From:	Ron Mruss [SMTP:rmruss@pangea.ca]
Sent:	Friday, August 06, 1999 10:07 PM
To:	'Quattro List'
Subject:	Clutch master/slave

I'm sure this has already been discussed, but I can't recall exactly what 
the concensus was, and the search engine is down so hopefully someone can 
help.

I've had problems intermittently with the clutch on my '84 5KS failing to 
return all the way up.  It now seems to have become a permanent condition. 
 The bushings, spring, etc. seem to be ok, clutch moves freely.  I think 
it's the master and/or slave, but how do I tell which one it is?  Would the 
master be leaking if it was toast, because it isn't, haven't checked the 
slave yet.  Any advice on what this might be and instructions on how to 
switch both the master and slave would be appreciated, because I think I'm 
going to attempt this myself.  My mechanic told me the book lists just the 
master at two hours, and I'd rather try to do it myself.

Thanks,

Jeff Mruss
'84 5KS


If the pedal is not returning then chances are the master is toast,  the 
actual replacement is no big deal.  The hard part is bleeding the system 
afterwards.  You either need a pressure bleeder that attaches to the 
resevoir, or another trick is to use a pump style oil can filled with clean 
DOT 4 and 2' of good tight fitting hose to fit the bleeder on the slave. 
 This is the way I bleed clutches at the dealer.  Attach the hose to the 
oil can and the slave then pump the brake fluid backwards from the slave up 
through the master.  Works great and is very quick.  The key is to keep 
bleeding until you get clean fluid from the feed hose to the master.  Then 
lock down the bleeder and drive away.  And yes 2 hours is about right,  if 
you have done few then maybe 1 hour, otherwise plan on 2.

HTH
Daniel Jones
Dealer Tech