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Eurolights, here's the details




I guess I touched a nerve on Eurolights, because I got more than a dozen
e-mails and questions within two hours of the time I sent the post. Rather
than answer the same questions twenty times, I will beg the indulgence of
the list as a group and perhaps distract a few of us from spider bites,
etc. for a few moments.

These lights fit all type 44 cars. They are direct replacements for 1986
through 1991 non turbo, non quattro cars, and will fit the turbo/quattro
cars as well if the grille is changed. They also fit the older cars (4
headlights, 1983 to 1985), but I'm not sure if they need the grille change
or not. Used type 44 grilles are available cheaply at parts yards since
there are a LOT of 1986 through 1989 2WD automatic transmission cars there,
which is what this grille comes off. I've paid as little as $5 for one.

These are the trapezoidal lights with the slanted inner edge.

I note that on my 86 5KTQ, the "inner" headlights are actually only marker
lights of just a few watts each, and do not in fact help me see anything
more at night. The different shape doesn't give me any more light!

They are a bolt-in for the non-turbo cars, and will also fit the turbo
cars, but there are some trim strips which must be removed. Clearance
between the back of the right side headlight and the intercooler pipe is
tight, but a loosen, wiggle, retighten solves that.

These lights use a single H-4 bulb, available in 45/60 (standard power, no
relays needed), 80/100 and 100/130 watt ratings (you MUST use relays for
these high power bulbs, and the bulbs have a shorter life). I advise relays
for ALL installations in the interests of longer combi switch life. I find
the standard output 45/60 watt bulbs to be totally adequate for anything
approaching sane speeds, but if I wanted to cruise at 125 MPH plus, I'd
want 100/130s, a paid up life insurance policy, and probably an airplane.

The lights come complete with the amber corner lights since the USA corner
lights fall off the euro headlamps beacuse the mounting tabs are slightly
different. The corner lamps need 30 seconds each with an X-acto because the
USA sockets have a different number of tabs - 3 vs. 2, so you get to make a
1/4" slot in the plastic, and it all fits together.

The conversion took me about 3 hours of not terribly intensive work,
including the relay conversion. Adding the relays is easier than it sounds
because everything is already out of the way, and you only have to MAKE
four wires - you have everything else right on the car.

I was getting $400 for the complete set, but I'll sell them for $350 per
set, and donate $25 on each set sold to Dan. You get right and left
headlamps plus right and left corner lights. These have glass lenses and
metal reflectors, and are aimed by knobs on the back of the lamp. I include
simple wiring diagrams and step-by-step instructions, so you don't have to
be an EE to make this work.

While this may seem to be a lot of money to spend on an older, low value
car (86 2WD, for instance), if you drive your car AT ALL at night, it will
be the BEST and most valuable thing you can do. Consider what it would cost
to run off the road because you couldn't see . . .

This conversion doesn't trigger the autocheck in early cars because all
autocheck does is compare the current draw on the right and left low beams.
The two relays (left low and right low) will draw the same current, so
autocheck is happy. One set of lights has been sold to a lister with a 90
or 91 200Q, and his autocheck is complaining. I don't yet know if it is a
wiring error, but will be forwarding him instructions to disable that
function (remove one relay, add one jumper, replace relay) as soon as I
find them.

In states that don't have inspection, these non-DOT approved lamps are not
a problem. In some states with inspections, the inspectors don't know what
they are looking at anyway, so again, no problem. It is possible that if
you got extremely unlucky, you could fail inspection, but I have not ever
heard of it happening in the whole time I have been on this list.

You will need to buy:
	Pair of H-4 bulbs, $7 each at Autozone, etc.
	Pair of sealed beam style headlight sockets with leads, $3 each, same
	Four 12 volt SPST relays, $5 each at radio shack
	About 15 feet of red, 10 gauge (not critical, Huw gets to buy yellow) wire
	A handful of terminals, relay mounting hardware, etc.

These ship in computer monitor boxes, and the package weighs about 14
pounds. Unfortunately, the box is JUST oversize, so we get to pay the 30
pound rate to UPS. I'm in Ormond Beach, FL (Daytona), so you can figure the
shipping. Payment can be check, or Mastercard, Visa, Amex through my
publishing business. Please, no CODs - they are a pain, take forever, and
cost too much.

Once these are gone, they are gone, and I am NOT doing this again.

Phone: 904 672 7371 (weekdays), fax 904 673 6560 (24 by 7), or obviously,
e-mail as above.

Best Regards,

Mike Arman