RE: No start situation

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

Stephane writes:
>...
Background is that the car won't hold an idle.  Ignition components are
all new, fuel pump is confirmed running well and high rpm power is good.
 I can get 1.4 Bar at WOT.  Fuel distributor buzzes nicely and air and
fuel filter are new.  
This car has always had a hot start problem and here is how I got around
it.  I wired a momentary contact switch on my dash which is spliced into
the cold start valve circuit.  When it wouldn't start (hot) I hit this
switch, which gives it a shot of gas through the intake manifold and it
would start and run fine.  Now, I need to hit this switch to start the
car EVERY TIME - hot or cold or in between,  and once it starts, I have
to keep my foot on the gas or it dies.  I have extensively searched for
vacuum leaks and don't think that's the problem - unless there are some
vacuum lines I haven't found. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

Two things to ck:  1)  This sounds like a case of classic Idle Stablizer 
Valve problem.  Removing and cleaning it, can get it to last longer, 
replacing it will need to happen eventually, and it's expensive.  2) your hot 
start pulse relay needs to be replaced, and/or the pinouts chased.  The CSFI 
should be activated without your bypass switch. 3) make sure your Idle switch 
has no resistance in either the idle position (activates the ISV) or the WOT 
position.  3 ohms is significant resistance to fool the computer

Do the input/output codes on the ISV, see if you hear it doing anything.  
Next, disconnect it, hose it out with some solvent (don't submerge it) 
reinstall (I do this about 6 times for the really stubborn ones).  You should 
be able to at least identify if this is the problem.

Next, remove the accordian hose and thoroughly ck it for cracks on the bottom 
side.  If these procedures don't do the trick, post up, and we (Huw - tm:) 
can walk you thru a few more tests. 

HTH

Scott Justusson