Re: update on my car

["Scott P. Rafe" <srafe@acc.com>]

Hope this helps...  the following was learned in my years as a P-A/VW mechanic.

MoS2 is Molybdenum Sulfide (grease) also known as "moly".  One of the parts
you need to CLEAN and grease is the trans input shaft splines, with some
restraint (think of buttering a pan).  Of course "moly" is also what is in
CV's.  Yes, you can use the CV grease on the splines.  The tube that comes
with the new boots/joints will have enough to steal a bit.  

Speaking of CV's...

Lubing Used/New CV's: If the new ones you get are NOT PRE-LUBED or you are
re-greasing after cleaning old CV's, use the WHOLE tube in the CV, being
SURE to put the neck of the tube into the opening(s) of the ball races when
the joint is flexed, and squeeze the tube of moly... HARD.  Then with about
half the tube left, stick the neck of the tube into the center opening of
the CV and mash it, moly should ooze out of various openings around the
races.  Flex the joint in all directions to distrubute the grease.  Dry
balls are not a good thing.

If you are just doing boots:  Take the time to disassemble the CV and CLEAN
it. They come apart fairly easily but it takes a *little* patience.  It is a
small puzzel.  Use a liquid grease solvent and a brush.  Get ALL of the old
grease out, it contains dirt and metal.   Trust me.  It is worth it to find
the burnt steel ball or grooved race NOW and replace the joint then to get
the whole thing back together and have the damn clicking start at the second
corner.  

Inspection criteria: NO blue balls or spots in the races.  NO cracking
either in the race or the webbing. The races are single contoured grooves.
There should be NO "extra" deepness in any part of the groove.  This would
appear as a small "track" where you can imagine the ball has worn the
groove, usually in the center. 

Remember, ALL of that wonderful HP has to go through that funny-looking
chunk of metal in your hand.  Take care of your CV's.

Tools and hardware: If you do not have one *Please* get a torque wrench
before reinstalling the CV bolts.  Use new bolts.  Do the CV's before
reinstalling the trans. Install the half-shafts then wire the shafts up out
of the way.  Use new axle nuts.  Coat axle threads with anti-seize compound
before assembling.

DO NOT ROLL THE CAR WITHOUT OUTER CV"S BOLTED INTO THE WHEEL BEARING!  It
will separate the bearing.

Also, grease the throwout and the face of it. LIGHTLY.  

General Rule:  If it turns or slides on another piece of metal, grease it...
again, with restraint.

Scott


At 01:29 PM 9/29/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Yes, I still have it :)
>I finally got the tranny out, because I noticed that behind
>the throwout bearing there is a sleeve held in by 3 screws.
>One was missing (at the bottom of the case) one was loose,
>and one was OK.  So now the tranny is sitting on my gravel 
>driveway (can't get the car up high enough to clear the
>tranny) and I'm wondering what else to do before I attempt
>to put it back.  Bentley talks about greasing a few areas with
>MoS2 grease, whatever that is.  I *have* to get this car done
>soon!  I'm ordering new seals for the axles and inner CVJ boots
>on Monday, put in new O2 sensor (needed it), and might need
>to replace the diff cable (it's frayed I think).  Anything else?
>I *will not* be going back into this tranny again.  Promise!
>Oh yeah, the clutch stuff was done when we replaced the engine 
>a couple of months ago...
>
>| Dan |
>-- 
>Dan Simoes			          dans@ans.net
>ANS 				http://coimbra.ans.net/dans.html
>100 Clearbrook Road  			(914) 789-5378 (voice)
>Elmsford, NY 10523			(914) 789-5310 (fax)
>
>