Re: my 85 urQ

[Bryan Gunn <bgunn@voicetek.com>]

Hi Anton,
 
> After having the car for four days I have begun compiling a list of
> repairs. First off the car does not like to idle when first started.
> This is the case regardless of engine temperature. Once the car is
> driven a few minutes it will then idle OK. Not great but at least it no
> longer dies. This may be related to altitude but I don't know enough to
> be sure. The car comes from Boulder, Co. which is around 5000 - 6000
> feet above sea level. I live at sea level so this could be a mixture
> problem. Here at the office I'll hook up a Fluke and try to get some
> readings.

I'll tell you right now what you're going to see on the meter. The freq
valve duty cycle is going to be about 30. The problem you describe here
is exactly what my '85 ur-q did when I bought it. And the solution is 
easy. The car has a bunch of vacuum leaks. When your car is in warm-up
mode, the FI is in open-loop. Therefore, the OXS is not monitoring the
exhaust. The car is using a pre-set fueling curve. So if there is 
unmetered air entering the intake tract, it dillutes the mix and the
car misfires and sputters and can stall. When the car warms up and goes
to closed-loop, the OXS goes "Whoa, what's all this exra air doing in here?"
and it adds more fuel to trim the mix to stoich. I bet your car is idling
a little high, too. Or somebody cranked the idle bleed air screw to bring
the elevated idle back down, which aggravetes the vaccuum leak problem.

After 12 years, a lot of the vaccuum line in the car is old and cracked.
Plus, these cars have HUGE vacuum systems. You're best bet is to buy an
assortment of vacuum line (OEM Continental cloth braid is available if
you know the right people) and hose claps (ditto OEM Norma and Gemi
clamps - no I'm NOT obsessed) and go through the car and just replace it
all. Also, valves with rubber diaphragms are on their way out at this 
point. Diff lock servos and valves like the charcoal canister purger. 
Replace these, too. They're not expensive. But make sure to get it all.
The cloth braid lines for the rear diff lock, the lines to and from the
charcoal canister, the lines to the warm-up regulator, everything. If
the original hasn't failed yet, it's about to so get it all at once.

Once this is done, set the idle speed and CO, and the car will run perfect.

>  As I  pointed out both mufflers are history so I will need to replace
> them. Knowing the cost of a factory system I will pursue replacing just
> the mufflers themselves at this time.

I've had good luck with the Scorpion stuff. It fits real well, is really 
well made (it's all T-304) and sounds like it flows well. I only have the
Scorpion "front" piece w/resonator, and I love it. I'm going to get the
rear piece soon. There's a comany called Prima Racing (I think) in the
UK that sells Scorpion and takes MasterCard. I have to do the math, but 
I think they are considerably less expensive from these guys than from
TAP.

>  At around 1K rpm there is a whining sound which I believe I have
> narrowed down to the water pump. I have checked all the accessories and
> determined that they are not the cause but I have not taken the time (I
> have not had the time) to remove the timing belt cover to get 100%
> confirmation on this yet. It is easy to duplicate the sound once the
> motor is warmed up so it is consistent.

I've never experienced this, but if the water pump is making noise, change 
it and the timing belt post haste. I'd do it anyway just 'cause.

>  The side vents and the floor vents blow only hot air so it looks like a
> heater valve replacement is in order. I have purchased one but haven't
> replaced the old one yet. The A/C also needs a recharge.

Typical.

>  Mechanically that's about it other then a few odds and ends not
> effecting the car's drivability.
> Cosmetically there are a number of things to do. Both the plastic
> headlight frames need replacement.

Hint: Euro headlights are easy to install, work AWESOME, and wont rub
a hole in the expensive plenum-to-turbo hose.

>  In general I am very pleased with this car. It may be too soon to tell
> just how good this car is mechanically but so far I haven't found
> anything wrong I wouldn't expect from a 13 year old car with 140+k miles
> on it and in fact it seems very solid.

One thing I've learned: It'll take a while, but when you get it right, the
car will amaze you. By 1997 standards, it's damn good. In '85, it must have
been unbelievable.

> If only I had time to dig into her! Things like weddings, kids, spouse,
> work and home repairs are conflicting with my true desire. Oh well, this
> is supposed to be a long term project anyway.....

Oh yeah.
-- 
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*            Bryan Gunn                  Email: bgunn@voicetek.com           * 
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