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Crankshaft Group - Dismantling and Assembling the Engine

13-481 Dismantling and Assembling the Engine

  1. Upper toothed belt cover
  2. P/n 049 109 207 - 6mm Allen. Often so corroded as to be unrecognizable as such. Halfords 10mm ratchet spanner with 6mm bit holder is ideal, but water pump pliers may be required if badly corroded.
  3. Cam belt - see installation and tensioning instructions.
  4. Cam wheel bolt - service tool 3036 or equivalent highly advisable,
  5. Camshaft sprocket - see installation and tensioning instructions. If removing while the engine is still in the car, pack the space below with rags in case the Woodruff key falls out.
  6. Toothed belt cover, rear. When refitting, replace all fasteners loosely (three bolts on face of engine, front cover securing stud, bolt on lower side of head) before tightening any of them.
  7. Spacer sleeves. The larger at the top.
  8. Blocks an oilway - must be correctly tightened or oil may leak.
  9. Four Allen screws, p/n N 014 726 3. Because of corrosion issues (they are exposed to all weathers) these often have to be drilled out. Extreme care and an impact driver may be an alternative. It is NOT necessary to replace the entire harmonic damper if the pulley Woodruff key fails.
  10. The infamous crank pulley bolt.
  11. Alternator belt. Torque settings for the alternator adjustment screw are documented for both new and reused belts. It's easier to fit the alternator end first.
  12. Harmonic damper - an essential part of a five-cylinder design. The marks on the damper are unreliable on old engines. The front pulley slot is for the alternator, the middle for air conditioning (if fitted) and the rear for the hydraulic pump.
  13. The lower cam belt cover retaining bolts can be tricky to locate and tighten. Any temptation to omit the cover should be resisted - a single stone could wreck the cam belt, and the engine.
  14. TDC mark used during manufacture. Not useful.
  15. Lower cam belt cover.
  16. The bolt through the idler roller is NOT intended to retain it - the interference fit performs that function. It is merely an oil pump retaining bolt - under NO circumstances must this bolt be used to pull the idler roller into position.
  17. Idler roller. Best removed with VAG 3034 service tool, but it can be levered out with two screwdrivers if a little care is exercised. If the oil pump is off the engine, the idler roller can be removed by screwing a bolt into the front of the idler roller boss and tapping the roller out with a drift from behind.
  18. Cam belt sprocket. There are two versions - early and SuperTorque. The Woodruff key formed in the rear that engages with the crankshaft should be carefully examined under magnification and replaced if there is ANY sign of cracking.
  19. See Note 6 above.
  20. See tensioning instructions
  21. The water pump is an exchange item. Always replace.

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