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Crankshaft Group - Dismantling the Cylinder Block, Crankshaft and Flywheel

13-484 Dismantling the Cylinder Block, Crankshaft and Flywheel

Note - the engine is pictured upside-down.

  1. 10Nm bolts. If a torque wrench is used,it should be within its calibration period. If the front oil pump retaining bolts are sheared, the engine may need to be removed from the vehicle.
  2. Oil pump pickup pipe
  3. Locking plate (tab washer) - always renew.
  4. Gaskets. Now that Audi ship 15 and 16 as a unit, a second rear oil seal gasket is the only way to move the lip of the oil seal away from wear grooves on the rear of the crankshaft.
  5. Observe main bearing torque.
  6. Main bearing caps:
  7. Main bearing shells 1 2 3 5 & 6:
  8. Needle roller:
  9. Thrust washers for cap - note fixing.
  10. Bearing shell 4
  11. Thrust washers for block
  12. Crankshaft
  13. Flywheel bolts should always be replaced. They come in two forms - with and without shoukders. Consult the correct torque settings.
  14. Flywheel timing pegs.
  15. Oil seal. No longer available separately - shipped with the flange below.
  16. Oil seal flange. In instances of severe crankshaft wear, it may be advisable to fit two gaskets so as to shift the lip of the seal away from a groove on the crankshaft. New seals must always be oiled before assembly.
  17. Oil pump. Driven by a cross-shaped dog clutch on the crankshaft - take care with alignment when reassembling.
  18. The crankshaft oil seal is fitted during manufacture with a small gap at the rear. If there are traces of wear on the crankshaft, the new seal should be pressed fully home to act on an unworn section of the shaft. Again, shaft oil seals should be lightly oiled before assembly.

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